It so fell that one dark evening in the month of June I was belated in the Bernese Oberland. Dusk overtook me toiling along the great Chamounix Road, and in the heart of a most desolate gorge, whose towering snow-flung walls seemed - as the day sucked inwards to a point secret as a leech's mouth - to close about me like a monstrous amphitheatre of ghosts. The rutted road, dipping and climbing toil...