About the Book

Bear Grylls knows what it takes to survive. But he’s not the first.

Take the American bombardier Louis Zamperini, who survived 47 days stranded at sea by catching and killing hungry sharks and drinking the warm blood of albatrosses – only to be captured by the Japanese and horrifically tortured for years in their most brutal POW camps . . .

Or Marcus Luttrell, a Navy SEAL who single-handedly took on a Taliban regiment before dragging his bleeding, bullet-ridden body for days through the harsh mountains of Afghanistan . . .

Or Nando Parrado, one of the survivors of a horrific air-crash high in the ice-bound Andes, who only lived because he was willing to eat the flesh of his dead companions . . .

In this gripping new book, Bear tells the stories of the adventurers, explorers, soldiers and spies whose refusal to quit in the most extreme situations has inspired him throughout his life. Some of them make uncomfortable reading – survival is rarely pretty. But all of them are tales of eye-watering bravery, death-defying resilience and extraordinary mental toughness by men and women who have one thing in common: true grit.

About the Author

Bear Grylls’ prime-time TV adventure series are some of the most watched shows on the planet, reaching an estimated 1.2 billion viewers in over 200 countries.

Bear has authored twelve books, including the international bestseller Mud, Sweat and Tears, which has been translated into thirteen languages and was voted the most influential book in China in 2012.

He originally served as a Trooper with 21 SAS, as part of the UK Reserve Special Forces, and subsequently led many record-breaking expeditions to the world’s extremes, raising millions of dollars for children’s charities. In recognition of this Bear was made an honorary Lieutenant Commander in the Royal Navy as well as a Colonel in the elite Royal Marines Commandos.

In 2009, Bear took over as the youngest ever UK Chief Scout to the Scouting Association, acting as a figurehead to 30 million Scouts around the globe.

He lives with his wife, Shara, and their three sons, Jesse, Marmaduke and Huckleberry, on a Dutch barge in London and on a small remote island off the coast of Wales.

Also by Bear Grylls

Facing Up

Facing the Frozen Ocean

Born Survivor

Great Outdoor Adventures

Living Wild

With Love, Papa

Mud, Sweat and Tears

A Survival Guide for Life

Mission Survival

Gold of the Gods

Way of the Wolf

Sands of the Scorpion

Tracks of the Tiger

 

For more information on Bear Grylls and his books, see his website at www.beargrylls.com

To my heroes, past and present.
Forged through hardship, defined by their
actions and remembered for their spirit.
And to the few young who don’t yet know they will
be tested and proven into the heroes of tomorrow.

Contents

Cover

About the Book

Title Page

Dedication

Epigraph

Introduction

Nando Parrado: the Taste of Human Flesh

Juliane Koepcke: Cauldron of Hell

John McDouall Stuart: the Maddest Explorer Ever?

Captain James Riley: Slaves in the Sahara

Steven Callahan: ‘My Body is Rotting Before My Eyes’

Thor Heyerdahl: the Kon-Tiki Expedition

Jan Baalsrud: the Greatest Escape

Louis Zamperini: Wrecked, Survived, Tortured, Revived

Alistair Urquhart: They Don’t Make ’Em Like This No More

Nancy Wake: the White Mouse Spy

Tommy Macpherson: the Man Who Took on 23,000 Nazis

Bill Ash: the Cooler King

Edward Whymper: a Disastrous Success

George Mallory: ‘Because It’s There’

Toni Kurz: the Murder Face

Pete Schoening: the Belay

Joe Simpson: Cut the Rope or Die

Chris Moon: Kidnapped, Blown Up … and Still Going

Marcus Luttrell: Hell Week

Aron Ralston: Self-Surgery Survival

Sir John Franklin: Death in the Arctic

Captain Scott: ‘Great God, This is an Awful Place’

Roald Amundsen: the Greatest Antarctic Explorer Ever

Douglas Mawson: White Hell

Ernest Shackleton: ‘the Most Pigheaded, Obstinate Boy I Ever Came Across’

Further Reading

Picture Acknowledgements

Index

About the Author

Also by Bear Grylls

Copyright

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

– ROBERT FROST

O Joy that seekest me through pain,

I cannot close my heart to thee;

I trace the rainbow through the rain,

And feel the promise is not vain,

That morn shall tearless be.

– GEORGE MATHESON

INTRODUCTION

One of the questions that I get asked over and over again is: who are my heroes, my influences, my inspirations?

The truth is that it’s not an easy question to answer.

For sure, my late father was a hero to me: adventurous, fun, humble – a man of the people – a risk taker, a climber, a commando and a loving, gentle father.

But so much of what has driven me to push myself mentally, physically, emotionally and spiritually, has come from some unlikely sources.

I hope this book will uncover and reveal to you some of the world’s most inspiring, moving and mind-blowing feats of human endurance ever undertaken.

There were many to choose from. Some of these stories you will know, many you will not. And for every story of pain and hardship there were often dozens of others to rival it – harrowing and inspiring in equal measure.

But I have put this collection together as it stands, because not only have these stories always moved me, but they also cover such a broad spectrum: from Antarctic hell, to desert disaster; from unparalleled wartime courage to facing the unimaginable horror of hacking your own arm off in order to survive.

But what drives men and women to plumb such depths and to risk it all? Where do those wells of resilience, grit and determination come from? Are we born with them, or are they something we learn?

Again, there are no simple answers, and if I have learned anything it is that there is no mould for a hero – they come in all sorts of unlikely guises. And people often surprise themselves when tested.

At the same time, there is an element of me that sees how certain people are destined for greatness. They develop character and courage, and they cultivate self-belief and vision from a young age. And it stands them well when their time of testing finally comes.

Ultimately, I like to think this quote by the mountaineering author Walt Unsworth sums up the type of character that seeks out adventure:

There are men for whom the unattainable has a special attraction. Usually they are not experts: their ambitions and fantasies are strong enough to brush aside the doubts which more cautious men might have. Determination and faith are their strongest weapons.

I also believe that we are all capable of great things, as well as having incredible reserves of strength that we might never know we possess. Like with a grape, you don’t really know what it is made of until it is squeezed.

One thing all these stories have in common is that, in each case, every one of these individuals was squeezed to within an inch of their life, and they all had to plumb untold reservoirs of courage, tenacity and fortitude.

In the process some died, and some lived. But through their struggles they each touched at the very heart of what it means to be human – they found a fire inside that goes far beyond the physical.

I hope that this book serves as a reminder that this spirit, and glowing ember, lives deep within us all. It just sometimes takes a little coaxing into flame.

I hope that these stories will inspire you to be that little bit braver and that little bit stronger, when your times of testing come around.

And remember, as Winston Churchill once said, ‘When you are going through hell, keep going.’

But for now, sit back and let me introduce you to my heroes …

NANDO PARRADO: THE TASTE OF HUMAN FLESH

‘This wasn’t heroism or adventure. This was hell.’

NANDO PARRADO

 
 

FOR 22-YEAR-OLD NANDO Parrado it was only ever meant to be a pleasant family trip.

He played for a Uruguayan rugby team who had chartered a flight to Santiago in Chile for an exhibition match. He’d asked his mother, Eugenia, and his sister, Susy, if they wanted to come along on the journey – one that meant flying over the Andes in a twin-engine turboprop.

Flight 571 took off on Friday 13 October 1972, and a few of the guys joked that this wasn’t the best day to be flying over a mountain range that can harbour difficult and dangerous weather for pilots. Hot air rises from the foothills and hits cold air at the snow line. The resulting maelstrom is bad news for aircraft.

But their jokes were just that. Jokes. Because the weather reports looked fine.

Weather, though, has a habit of changing very quickly in the mountains. And especially in these mountains. The plane had been in the air just a couple of hours when the pilot was forced to land in the town of Mendoza in the foothills of the Andes.

They overnighted there. Next day, the pilots were in two minds as to whether they should continue the journey. Their passengers wanted to get to their rugby match. They put pressure on the pilots to fly.

Which turned out to be a very bad move.

The turboprop was flying over the Planchon Pass when the turbulence hit. Four sharp bumps. Some of the guys cheered, like they were riding on a rollercoaster. Nando’s mother and sister looked frightened. They were holding hands. Nando himself opened his mouth to reassure them.

But the words didn’t come, as the plane suddenly dropped several hundred feet.

Nobody was cheering any more.

The plane was shuddering violently. Some of the passengers started to scream. Nando’s neighbour, who was sitting by the window, pointed outside. Less than ten metres from the wing tip, Nando could see the mountainside: a huge wall of rock and snow.

His neighbour asked if they should be so close, his voice trembling with dread.

Nando didn’t answer. He was too busy listening to the horrible shrieking of the engines as the pilots desperately tried to gain height. The whole plane was shaking so badly it felt like it was going to break apart.

Nando caught the terrified glances of his mother and sister.

And then it happened.

A violent shudder.

An awful grinding sound as metal twisted against rock. The plane had hit the mountainside. It was being ripped to bits.

Nando looked up. He didn’t see the top of the fuselage. He saw open sky.

He felt cold air on his face.

And saw clouds in the gangway.

There was no time to pray. No time even to think. He felt a tremendous force ripping him from his seat. A violent, deafening noise all around.

Nando Parrado must have been sure he was about to die a grisly, painful, terrifying death.

Then he was plunged into darkness.

*

Nando was unconscious for three days after the crash. So he didn’t see some of the injuries his companions sustained.

One man had been stabbed in the stomach by a steel tube. When his friend tried to remove it, a length of oozing intestine emerged from his gut.

Another man’s calf muscle had torn away from the bone, then twisted about his shin. The leg bone itself was open to the air. His friend had to squash the muscle back in place before bandaging it up.

One woman had been crushed in a pile of seats that nobody could untangle. Her legs were broken and she was yelling in agony. There was nothing that anyone could do, except leave her to die.

Nando’s head had swollen to the size of a basketball. He was still breathing, but nobody expected him to live. He defied his companions’ expectations, though, and awoke from his coma three days later.

He was lying on the floor of the wrecked fuselage where the survivors were huddled. The dead were piled in the snow outside. The wings had been ripped from the plane. So had the tail. They had crashed into a snowy, stony valley, where they could see nothing but the forbidding peaks of the mountains all around them. But for now, all Nando’s attention was on his family.

The news was bad. His mother was dead.

Nando was pierced with grief, but he didn’t allow himself to cry. Tears, he knew, would cost his body salt. Without salt, you die. He had been out of his coma for only minutes, but already he was displaying a refusal to give in.

A determination to survive, no matter what.

Fifteen people had died in that horrific air crash, but Nando’s next thought was for his sister. Susy was alive, but only just. Her face was smeared in blood, her broken body too painful to move given her massive internal injuries. Her feet were already black with frostbite. Delirious, she was calling out for their mother, begging her to take them home, away from the dreadful cold. Nando hugged her for the rest of the day, and all that night, in the hope that his warmth would keep her alive.

But, gradually, the full extent of the danger they were in hit home.

Night-time temperatures in those mountains could reach –40°C. While he was in a coma, the others had packed holes in the fuselage with snow and suitcases to give them some protection from the deathly cold mountain winds. Even so, Nando awoke to find his clothes stuck to his skin. Everybody’s hair and lips were white with frost.

The fuselage – their only shelter – had come to a halt on top of a huge glacier. Even though they were very high up, the mountain peaks that surrounded them were so high they had to crick their necks to see the summits. The air was so thin it burned their lungs. The sun’s rays would blister their skin. The glare of the snow dazzled and blinded them.

They would have had a better chance of survival if they were stranded at sea or in the desert. At least those two environments host life. Up here, nothing could live. No animals. No plants. They rationed the small amounts of food they managed to gather from the cabin and the suitcases. But there was very little, and it soon ran out.

Day turned to freezing night, then back into day again. On the fifth day after the crash, the four strongest survivors decided to try to climb out of the valley. They returned hours later: oxygen-starved, exhausted and utterly defeated. It was impossible, they said.

And ‘impossible’ is a bad word to have in your mind when you’re trying to survive.

*

On the eighth day, Nando’s sister died in his arms. Once more, though racked with grief, he fought back tears.

Nando buried her in the snow. Everything had been taken from him, except one thing: his father, back in Uruguay. He made a silent promise to him that he would not allow himself to die here in the frozen wastes of the Andes.

There was water everywhere, in the form of snow. It soon became unbearably agonizing to eat it, though, because the dry cold had made their lips bloodied and raw. They started to die of thirst, until one of the survivors invented a snow-melting device from a sheet of aluminium. They would pile snow on to it and leave it in the sun to melt.

But no amount of water would bring them back from the brink of starvation.

Their meagre food supplies ran out after a week. At altitude, and in the cold, the human body needs far more nourishment than at sea level, but now they were getting nothing. Very quickly, their bodies started consuming themselves. They needed protein. If they didn’t get it, they’d die. It was as simple as that.

And there was only one source of food available to them now.

The bodies of the dead were lying outside in the snow. Their flesh was perfectly preserved in the sub-zero temperatures. Nando was the first to suggest that they use it to survive. Their only other option was to wait for death to take them, and he wasn’t prepared to do that.

They started with the pilot.

Four of the survivors found shards of glass in the fuselage. They used these to hack strips of flesh from the pilot’s corpse. Nando took a piece. It was frozen hard, of course, and a curious grey-white in colour.

He stared at it in his palm. Around him, he could see some survivors doing the same. Others had already placed the frozen gobbets of human meat into their mouths and were chewing with difficulty.

It’s just meat, he told himself. Nothing more.

He slipped the flesh past his cracked lips and on to his tongue.

It had no taste. Just texture: hard and sinewy. Nando chewed a couple of times, then forced the lump of human meat down his throat.

He didn’t feel guilty. Just angry, that their lives had come to this. And although the flesh didn’t stop the agonizing pangs of hunger, it gave him hope that he might stave off starvation until rescuers found them.

Because every rescue team in Uruguay would be looking for them. Wouldn’t they? They wouldn’t have to continue this gruesome diet for long. Surely?

One of the survivors had found a little transistor radio in the wreckage, which he’d managed to get working. The day after they’d first tasted human meat, they managed to tune in to a news programme.

It told them exactly what they didn’t want to hear. The search for them had been called off. Conditions were too treacherous. There was simply no chance of finding any survivors.

*

‘Breathe,’ they would tell themselves when despair started to grip them. ‘If you breathe, it means you’re alive.’

But now that all hope of rescue was lost, they must have wondered how many more breaths they had in them.

The mountain had more horrors to deliver. The next came in the form of a night-time avalanche. Countless tons of snow slipped over the fuselage in the middle of a winter storm. Large quantities made their way inside the wreckage, covering Nando and many other survivors. Suffocated by their icy blankets, six of them died.

Nando would later compare it to being trapped in a submarine at the bottom of the sea. A furious storm was blowing, so they didn’t dare venture out, and they didn’t know how much snow had compacted above them. There was every chance that this would be their icy tomb.

The water-melting device no longer worked now they were hidden from the sun. And the only bodies were those of the newly dead.

Before, only those who had cut up the corpses had been forced to watch. Now, all but a few were nearby as the few brave survivors hacked into the dead. The sun had not dried out the flesh of these fresh bodies, so eating their meat was a very different prospect. It was not hard and dry, but squishy and oily.

Raw.

Wet.

It oozed blood, and was full of lumpy gristle. And it was far from tasteless. It took everything Nando and the others had not to gag as they forced wobbling meat down their throats, surrounded by the pungent, sickly stench of festering human fat and tissue.

*

The blizzard ended. It took eight days for the survivors to dig the avalanched snow out of the fuselage.

In the detached tail of the aircraft the survivors knew that there were some batteries, which might allow them to get the plane’s radio working, so they could call for help. Nando and three of his companions journeyed for several painful, exhausting hours across the frozen snow, and eventually found the batteries. In the days that followed they tried to fix the radio, but failed.

In the meantime, the crash site was becoming an increasingly horrific place to be.

To start with, the survivors had limited themselves to small strips of flesh from the bodies of their fallen companions. Some refused to do it, but reports say most came round to the idea when they realized they had no other option. And as time went on, the brutal reality of their diet was there for everyone to see.

Human bones littered the crash site. Amputated arms and legs, the flesh still uneaten, were stacked by an opening to the fuselage – a grisly, but easily accessible, larder. They had stretched large sheets of human fat over the plane to dry in the sun. The survivors had moved on from eating just the flesh, to consuming the offal too. Kidneys. Livers. Hearts. Lungs. They had even cracked open the skulls of the dead in order to scoop out and eat the brain matter inside. The split, empty heads lay discarded in the snow.

Two dead bodies, however, remained untouched. Out of respect for Nando, the others had left the corpses of his mother and his sister unsullied. But Nando knew they couldn’t leave perfectly good food there for long. The time would come when survival would win out over respect. He had to try to fetch help, before he was forced to eat his own family. He had to battle against the mountain.

He knew he would probably die trying. But that was better than not trying at all.

*

They had been stranded for sixty days when Nando and his two companions – Roberto and Tintin – set out to find help. There was no way down from their position. They could only go up. But they did not know that they were about to attempt to scale one of the highest peaks in the Andes – a peak that stretched nearly 17,000 feet above sea level.

Experienced mountaineers would have thought twice about an expedition like this. They certainly wouldn’t have attempted it after sixty days of near-starvation, without the equipment crucial to extreme mountaineering.

Nando and his gritty companions had no crampons, no ice picks, no cold-weather gear. No safety ropes or steel anchors. They wore only the clothes they could cobble together from the suitcases in the wreckage, and they were weak with malnutrition, thirst, exhaustion and exposure. This was the first time they had ever tried to climb a mountain. It didn’t take long for Nando’s inexperience to show.

If you’ve never suffered altitude sickness, you can’t imagine what it’s like. Your head splits with pain. You can barely stand with dizziness. You’re overcome with tiredness. Go too high and you risk brain damage and death. They say you should climb no more than 1,000 feet in a day when you are at altitude, to allow yourself to acclimatize.

Nando and his friends knew none of this. They climbed 2,000 feet in the first morning. Their blood thickened as it tried to conserve oxygen. They hyperventilated. They dehydrated.

They also kept going.

Their only sustenance was scraps of human meat that they had stripped from the bodies of their dead friends and stuffed into an old sock to transport it. But by now, cannibalism was the least of their worries. The biggest problem they had was the sheer magnitude of the task ahead of them.

In their inexperience, they chose the most difficult routes up into the mountains. Nando led the way, and he had to learn advanced mountaineering skills on the job. He had to find his way up impossibly steep gradients covered with sheet ice. He had to avoid deadly couloirs and traverse razor-thin, slippery ledges. When they came across an absolute sheer rock face, hundreds of feet high and covered with compacted snow and ice, Nando didn’t retreat. He used a sharp-tipped stick to carve a stairway up it.

At night, the temperature dropped so low that their water bottle cracked and shattered. Even during the day, the men couldn’t stop shivering from the inhuman cold and their utter exhaustion. They reached the peak of the mountain against all the odds, but the cruel Andes still had another blow to deal. Nando had expected to see beyond the mountain range. Looking around from that incredible vantage point, he saw nothing but other peaks as far as the eye could see.

No green.

No civilization.

No help.

Nothing but snow, ice and rock.

When you’re fighting to survive, morale is everything. Despite the disappointment, Nando didn’t allow himself to be downhearted.

He could make out two smaller peaks whose tips were not covered in ice. Was this a good sign? Perhaps they indicated the edge of the mountain range? But they were, he estimated, 50 miles away. They didn’t have enough human meat for all three of them to continue the journey. And so Tintin, the weakest of the three, was sent back to the crash site so that Nando and Roberto could continue. It took him only an hour to slide back to his friends in the fuselage.

They were descending now, towards the clouds, putting themselves at the mercy of not only the mountain, but also gravity. Nando fell, and tumbled into walls of ice. His thin, weakened body was bruised and battered. Still he and Roberto went on, forcing themselves to put one step in front of another, even though they were in exhausted agony.

As they lost height and the temperature increased, the human meat they had stashed in the sock started to thaw and putrefy. The stench of the rotting flesh was bad enough, but it was also becoming apparent the meat was inedible. If they didn’t find help soon, they would simply waste away.

On the ninth day of their trek, however, their luck changed. They saw a man.

On the tenth day, the man brought help.

He also brought supplies. Nando and Roberto ate their first hot, non-human food for seventy-two days. More importantly, they gave the local police the message they had crossed the Andes to deliver. ‘I come from a plane that fell into the mountains … In the plane there are still fourteen injured people.’

And on 22 and 23 December, thanks to Nando and Roberto’s stubborn refusal to be beaten, and just in time for Christmas, a helicopter airlifted the remaining survivors to safety.

Of the forty-five people on that dreadful flight, sixteen survived. The greatest wonder is that there were not more deaths.

*

Many people, when they hear the story of Nando Parrado and his desperate companions, take away nothing but a grisly tale of human cannibalism. Some people even criticize them for the decision they took.

They’re wrong, of course.

In one of their darkest moments, the survivors made a pact with each other. If any of them died, they gave permission for the others to eat their bodies. Because they knew that, in eating the meat of their dead companions, they weren’t showing a disregard for human life. They were showing just how precious it is. So precious that they were willing to do anything to cling to it as an unimaginably harsh environment did its best to rip it from them.

The survivors of Flight 571 showed remarkable courage, ingenuity and, I think, dignity. They demonstrated a fact as old as life itself: that when death seems almost certain, one of the most human reactions is a refusal to lie down and let it win.

JULIANE KOEPCKE: CAULDRON OF HELL

‘I’m falling, slicing through the sky … about two miles above the earth.’

JULIANE KOEPCKE

 
 

CHRISTMAS EVE, 1971. A 17-year-old student born in Peru to German parents is firmly strapped into her aircraft seat next to her mother. It’s a short hop, from Lima to Pucallpa, and should only take an hour.

But Juliane Koepcke’s journey is going to take a lot longer than that.

The aircraft is a Lockheed Electra turboprop, cruising at 10,000 feet. When she’d first seen it back on the ground, Juliane had thought it looked awesome. She didn’t know that it was designed principally for flying over desert landscapes. Or that it was totally unsuited for taking on the turbulent mountain air above the Andes.

And little did she know that the aircraft was about to fly into the eye of a storm.

Minutes ago, it was daylight outside. Now it is as dark as night. Out of the windows Juliane can see violent strobes of lightning splitting the skies all around her.

The aircraft starts to shudder. It feels as if some external power is shaking it, like a child shaking a toy. The aircraft might have looked mighty and formidable on the ground, but up here, surrounded by such massive forces of nature, it is as insignificant as a humble fly.

The overhead lockers suddenly drop open. Luggage tumbles out. Food scatters everywhere. Everybody’s screaming.

Juliane Koepcke tries to stay calm. So does her mother. She tries to reassure Juliane, to tell her everything will be all right.

But it won’t be all right.

A searing white light blinds Juliane. Something’s happened to the right-hand wing. A lightning strike? It’s impossible to say. There’s a sickening jerk. The front of the plane tips downwards. The screaming gets worse, but it’s dwarfed by the deafening roar of the engines as the stricken aircraft plummets, faster and faster, towards the ground.

Juliane hears her mother speak among the screaming of both engines and humans. It is a quiet acknowledgement that death is approaching.

The plane is breaking up around her. And suddenly, Juliane Koepcke realizes that she is not surrounded by the other passengers any more. Or even by the plane itself. She can no longer hear either the screams or the engines.

All she can hear is the immense roar of the wind in her ears.

She is still strapped into her seat, which has broken away from the body of the airliner. She is still 10,000 feet in the air.

She’s falling back to earth. Fast.

But, amazingly, her epic story of survival is only just beginning.

*

Juliane Koepcke would later recall how the seatbelt strapping her to the seat, dug tightly into her guts, pushing the air from her lungs as she fell. There was no time to feel scared. She slipped in and out of reality. During a moment of consciousness, she sensed that she was upside down and spinning fast, drilling her way through the empty air as the jungle canopy below spun up to meet her.

Then darkness, as she blacked out again.

She awoke to find herself lying on the rainforest floor. The plane seat was on top of her, but she was no longer strapped in.

She looked at her watch. Nine in the morning.

She tried to stand. Sudden dizziness. She collapsed to the jungle floor again.

Her collarbone felt strange. She touched it. Broken: the two ends of the break were pushing upwards, but mercifully they hadn’t punctured the skin. There was a deep cut on her left leg, but strangely it wasn’t bleeding. She felt lethargic with concussion, and had lost her glasses, so it was difficult for her to see clearly for more than a few metres.

Only then did it strike her what had happened. And that now, she was utterly alone. She called out to her mother, but nobody called back. The only sounds she could hear were those of the rainforest.

She had survived the unsurvivable. Now she would have to survive in one of the most unforgiving environments on earth.

Dense, uninhabited, primary jungle.

*

If you want to get out of your comfort zone, go to the jungle.

A mixture of constant high temperatures and humidity, plenty of water and plenty of sunlight mean that rainforests are homes to the most complex ecosystems on the planet. Life is everywhere: crawling, clawing, biting through the undergrowth, crouched in the trees, slithering along the branches. It can take your breath away with its beauty; but it can also kill you in an instant.

Juliane Koepcke knew this. The jungle was not, to her, totally unfamiliar. Her parents had been zoologists, and had taken her to the jungle when she was a child.

Consequently, she also knew that the worst thing she could do, alone and injured, was panic. She needed a clear head and a calm mind. She needed to be alert, and to consider her every move carefully. If she allowed herself to freak out, she’d probably never make it through a day.

She realized that she was only wearing one shoe. The other must have come off as she fell from the sky. In her previous visits to the jungle, she’d always worn rubber boots to protect herself from snake bites. Venomous snakes or spiders could be lying anywhere, camouflaged to invisibility, but guaranteed to strike if disturbed. One covered foot was better than none, she figured.

Other than the shoe, she was wearing nothing but a thin summer dress. Ripped to shreds already. Hardly the ideal gear for jungle survival.

Then the thirst hit her: sudden and overpowering. Juliane looked around to see broad green leaves covered with moisture. She sucked the water off the leaves.

Moving and navigating in the jungle is an art form. And it is also bloody hard work – even with all the right gear and footwear. One section of jungle can appear almost indistinguishable from another. To the untrained eye, it can be just a blur of noisy, steamy, filthy, stinking green.

In her previous experiences, Juliane had used a machete to hack markers into the trees to ensure she wasn’t walking around in circles. But now she had nothing. So she examined her surroundings carefully and remembered an especially imposing tree. A fixed landmark to help her orientate herself. Then she started to stagger around the area, looking for survivors.

And, especially, for her mother.

She found nothing but a tin of boiled sweets that had landed in the vicinity with her. Hardly what she was hoping for, but it was sustenance of a sort.

Far above, through the thick jungle canopy, she heard an aircraft circling. She knew what that meant: rescue teams were searching for survivors. But there was no way they’d ever be able to see her. Her spirits sank.

If she was going to get out of there, she would have to do it alone.

The hard way.

Above all the strange noises of the jungle she caught another sound. Running water.

She remembered a piece of survival advice her father had once given her: if you’re lost in the jungle, find running water and follow it. It doesn’t matter how feeble it is: chances are it will meet another tributary and become a stream. Then that stream will meet another stream and become a small river. And where you find a river, you’ve a good chance of finding people …

She located the source: a tiny, weak stream, blocked continuously by fallen trees. As she trekked, the stream grew a little wider – twenty inches. Exhausted and disorientated, she continued to follow it. She would make it her path to safety.

At about 6 p.m., night fell swiftly, as it always does in the jungle. Utter blackness surrounded her, as did the strange, eerie sounds of the rainforest at night. She had been shown how to light a fire by the friction of rubbing sticks together. A fire would give her some warmth, and ward away dangerous animals. But the process of lighting a fire was impossible: it was the rainy season, and everything was soaked through – not to mention that she had no tools to cut into the wood in the first place.

Night-time can be very intimidating in the jungle, but Juliane was too burned out to be afraid. She slumped against a tree, exhausted.

*

Her first night had done little to relieve her exhaustion. Her fatigue was the result of both shock and concussion. But Juliane knew she had to press on.

She followed the same stream, taking care to step with her sandalled foot first. The trickle of water twisted and turned its way through the undergrowth, adding distances she couldn’t even measure to her path through the jungle. The further she walked, the more she felt the energy draining from her body. But she couldn’t risk taking any shortcuts. Without her glasses she couldn’t see very far into the distance. She dared not stray from the stream. And so she continued to struggle, her strength continually ebbing away.

Lost in a jungle, humans need to be aware that they are not the only ones searching for water and food. Every other animal and plant is doing the same. So while a stream can be a tool for survival, it can also be a magnet for danger.

She passed a bird-eating spider – the second biggest spider in the world with venomous fangs that can easily puncture human skin. She eased her way gingerly past it, but it wasn’t the worst jungle creature she was going to encounter by a long shot. She later heard the ominous, slow flapping of wings. Longer and louder than any other bird. With a sick feeling in her gut she knew that she was listening to a king vulture.

And she knew exactly what the king vulture feeds on.

Carrion. Rotting flesh.

She turned a bend in the river, and there she saw it: a row of three seats from her aircraft. And strapped in to the three seats were two men and one woman.

They were upside down, their heads stuck into the floor of the jungle. Their legs were broken, pointing awkwardly up into the air.

She saw the vultures next. They were perched in the trees, watching and waiting. The flesh was still too fresh for their liking. But soon they would descend and rip the rotting meat from the corpses.

She looked around to see if there were any more bodies. Nothing. Just a few scraps of metal littering the jungle floor. And so she hurried on her way, leaving the dead and the beady eyes of the hungry vultures.

She wasn’t carrion. Not quite yet, anyway.

*

Juliane dared not eat anything.

The rainy season is not the best time to be foraging for food in the jungle, as most of the fruits flourish during the dry season. That’s not to say the jungle can’t be an abundant source of food at any time, but you have to know what you’re eating. There are many plants that look delicious but are in fact deadly poisonous.

Juliane had no knife to hack out palm hearts or roots that she knew would give her sustenance, nor any means to catch fish or animals. When her last boiled sweet ran out, she had nothing to eat.

She did, at least, have water, but the stream along which she was walking had brown scum floating along the top. In previous visits to the jungle, she had always boiled water before she drank it. That’s the sensible thing to do – the only way to be sure of killing the myriad bugs that can infest unknown water sources. But Juliane had no means of making fire.

So she drank the dirty water in huge quantities – both to keep hydrated and to stave off hunger by keeping her belly full. It is always a risk drinking water like this, but desperate times call for desperate measures.

She tried to keep track of the days, but it wasn’t easy. At six in the morning it grew light. At six in the evening, night fell fast. After the deep, concussed slumber of her first night, sleep seldom came again. During the long nights she found herself surrounded by mosquitoes which seemed intent on eating her alive. Her skin was covered with burning welts, and the only relief came when it rained.

Only that was no relief at all. It is cold at night during the rainy season, and the freezing rain soaked her thin cotton dress, leaching all the warmth from her body. It was during those unbearably long, painful nights that she felt herself steadily abandoning all hope …

Little wonder then that, starving, partially concussed, her bones broken, her clothes soaked, her skin burning with sores and bites, that any sense of time became jumbled. So, she wasn’t sure if it was on the fifth day or the sixth that she heard the call of a hoatzin – a bird which she remembered makes its nest on wide rivers under open skies. She scrambled through the thick brush, which continuously ripped at her skin, and eventually found herself by a broad river.

There was zero sign of human habitation.

The river bank was too overgrown to walk along. So, she waded along the shallow edge of the water, wisely feeling her way with a stick so that she could scare off any stingrays that might be lurking in the mud.

She kept sinking into the deep oozing mud. And so she soon decided to swim instead. Which took a lot of guts. She knew there were piranhas in that water. Then there were the caimans – South American relatives of the alligator, that can grow up to four metres long.

She had little choice but to brave them both.

And pray.

She drifted slowly downstream with the current. Then, as darkness fell, she pulled herself up on to the bank for another of those agonizingly long jungle nights.

*

Juliane had a cut on the back of her right arm. It was difficult to see but felt uncomfortable so she twisted her arm around to take a better look.

Maggots.

Flies had laid their eggs in the open wound. The eggs had now hatched and the larvae were a good centimetre long. The gash was infested as they fed off the rotten skin.

Juliane tried to pick them out. But without success.

She knew that these parasites would not harm their host – indeed, maggots can help keep a wound clean because they only feed on dead tissue. But while the wound was open it could become infected – and an infected, open wound in the jungle could kill her very fast.

There was little she could do, so she left the crawling maggots where they were and lowered herself once more into the piranha and alligator river and continued her dangerous swim.

As the day wore on, she knew that her body was steadily falling apart around her. She could soon feel a sharp pain between her shoulders. She touched it gingerly. Blood. As she’d been drifting downstream, the sun had been beating down on her back, scorching the skin. She had bleeding, second-degree burns just from the sunlight.

Soon, too exhausted to continue, she collapsed on the river bank. She awoke to find several baby caimans just inches from her body.

And, nearby, the mother, preparing to attack: hissing, mouth open.

She fled into the river, hoping the caiman would stay with its young.

But soon she had an even worse enemy to deal with: her hunger. She’d been struggling through the jungle for more than a week, and she was severely weakened. She found herself on all fours, frantically trying to catch one of the frogs she saw jumping around her, but without success …

*

On the tenth day of her jungle nightmare Juliane was drifting like a corpse through the water, in a daze of confusion and pain, when she saw it.

At first, she thought her eyes were deceiving her. A hallucination, brought on by exhaustion on the brink of death.

But then she realized it was real. There was a small boat on the river bank.

She dragged her broken, bleeding body towards it. There were footsteps leading from the boat up the bank. She crawled after them. It took her hours just to cover a hundred yards. But she finally found a simple shelter. There was a canister of petrol there, for the outboard motor of the boat. She poured some on to her maggot-infested wound. It was agony, but it had the desired effect: the maggots – most of them, at least – came worming their way to the surface and she was able to wipe them away.

Then she discovered a tarpaulin and wrapped it round her to protect her skin from the mosquitoes. That night she slept like a baby in that little shelter. She would later say it felt like a five-star hotel.

The following day, three men found her.

She explained who she was, that she had fallen from the skies and survived for ten days in the jungle. They stared at her in amazement, not knowing how any human could have survived such an ordeal.

And they also stared at her in horror. It was not her bleeding back that horrified them the most, nor the maggot-infested wound, nor the broken skin, blistered with angry, suppurating insect bites.

It was her eyes. The blood vessels had burst all across her eyeballs from her extreme fall at terminal velocity. They were oozing blood – sockets of weeping red.

*

Juliane Koepcke had fallen two miles from the sky and survived through sheer good luck. But after that, luck had very little to do with it.

She survived the horrific ordeal of the next ten days by using the little knowledge she had to very good effect. Despite the terrifying situation she found herself in, she stayed calm and adapted her mindset to survive the jungle terrain around her. She trusted her instinct and refused to give in, despite the often hopeless outlook of her situation.

How many people in Juliane’s situation would have panicked? But Juliane knew that to panic was to die. She kept her cool and she kept moving. She ignored the pain, and she stuck to her plan. And, ultimately, it was that indomitable survivor spirit that saved her life.

Now there’s a girl with some real grit.

JOHN MCDOUALL STUART: THE MADDEST EXPLORER EVER?

‘The explorations of Mr John McDouall Stuart may truly be said, without disparaging his brother explorers, to be amongst the most important in the history of Australian discovery.’

WILLIAM HARDMAN, EDITOR OF THE JOURNALS OF JOHN MCDOUALL STUART

 
 

IT’S A LONG way from Fife in Scotland to the Australian outback. And I’m not just talking about physical distance.