Volume 1

DEPARTURE.

I.

Preparations for the Voyage.

Approbation of the Plan to fit out an Austrian Man-of-War for a Voyage round the World.—Object of the Expedition.—Appointment of a Scientific Commission.—Preparations.—Fitting out the Frigate Novara at Pola.—Departure for Trieste.—Visit of the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian on board.

In the autumn of 1856, His Majesty the Emperor was graciously pleased to approve of the proposal for a voyage round the world, as projected by his Imperial Highness the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, the head of the Austrian navy, and to commission the sailing frigate Novara for that purpose, a vessel qualified to meet every requisite condition.

The chief object of the Expedition—a circumstance which must not be lost sight of—was to afford the officers and cadets of the ship an opportunity of acquiring that practical acquaintance with naval affairs which, added to the theoretical knowledge previously attained, would render them thoroughly familiar with nautical routine, and thus materially contribute to the further development of the Austrian navy.

This branch of the public service, placed since 1848 on an entirely new basis, has with difficulty worked its way through all those embarrassing circumstances inseparable from the organization of a new system; but the honest zeal and energy of the board appointed, supported by favour from the highest quarters, have succeeded in introducing many improvements, and in increasing by degrees the numerical strength of the men, thereby laying a secure foundation for the rising naval force, the importance of which, at this moment, every reflecting patriot will acknowledge.

The intended Expedition offered, besides the advantages for the service, another not less important for the State, namely, the recognition of the Austrian flag in remote quarters of the globe, to which it had never hitherto penetrated; and by thus opening new channels for the outlet of our natural products and manufactured goods, to promote the industrial, commercial, and maritime interests of the empire.

In order to satisfy the scientific requirements of the age, the illustrious head of the navy issued orders, that the officers on board should in every way assist in the researches to be made, connected with navigation and geography; and was, moreover, pleased to invite the Imperial Academy of Sciences to nominate two members, he himself naming a third, to accompany the Expedition for the purpose of observing and investigating phenomena pertaining to the different branches of physical science, as well as collecting rare specimens and interesting objects of natural history. To this commission were ultimately attached a botanist, a practical zoologist, an artist, and a flower-gardener.

The Academy had, for the guidance of these gentlemen, drawn up instructions which, with a multitude of other papers containing useful hints and interesting queries, received from the Imp. Geographical, Geological, and Medical Societies, as well as from numerous foreign and native scientific men, formed a most valuable collection of materials for the purposes of the Expedition.4

Foremost amongst these savans stood Alexander von Humboldt, that illustrious man, who up to the last moment of his existence was alive with youthful enthusiasm for every scientific enterprise. In England great interest in the success of the Expedition was evinced by Sir Roderic Murchison, Sir W. Hooker, Sir Charles Lyell, General Sabine, Admiral Smyth, Admiral Fitzroy, Professor Robert Owen, Professor Philips, Professor Bell, Professor W. A. Ramsay, Professor Goodsir, of Edinburgh, W. J. Hamilton, Esq., Charles Darwin, Esq., L. Horner, Esq., James Yates, Esq., B. Davis, Esq., &c., &c. From the United States of North America, we received most valuable communications from Commander M. F. Maury, National Observatory, Washington, D. C.—Captain Rodgers, and others.

Letters of introduction were received from Germany, and particularly from England, to influential parties and societies in a variety of places abroad, amongst which were many warm and friendly recommendations from the English Government and Admiralty, as well as the Directors of the then East India Company, to various administrative authorities in the British Colonies.

GUN-ROOM OF THE NOVARA.

The frigate Novara was laid up in the arsenal of Pola, where all requisite steps were taken to complete her outfit, and prepare her thoroughly for the voyage. The ventilation of the lower deck was improved, and the number of cabins increased in proportion to the number of individuals for whom accommodation was to be provided.

The gun-room was, by command of the Archduke, converted into a reading-room, and provided with a well-selected library as well as with all the charts and maps necessary for the information of the officers, who here made their calculations and executed their drawings.

The store-rooms for the sails and tackle were enlarged, so as to hold a double quantity.

A distilling apparatus, the same as patented by M. Rocher, of Nantes, was fixed on the gun-deck, and being placed in connection with the ship's coppers, it was found that, during the few hours each day that the latter were used for cooking, enough sea-water was distilled to supply the entire ship's company with excellent water to drink. This distilled water, after having been kept in iron tanks for a month, was found pleasant to the taste, and agreed very well with the health. The excellent health enjoyed by all the crew throughout the voyage must, in a great measure, be ascribed to the circumstance, that scarcely any other but this distilled sea-water was used, so that the men were enabled entirely to forego drinking river or spring-water, which in the tropics are frequently found injurious.

The use of such an apparatus permits a great diminution in the store of water usually carried by a vessel. The space gained by this diminished bulk of water, enabled us to take on board a larger cargo of coal and provisions, such as preserved beef and compressed vegetables. The sailors were not, however, particularly fond of the preserved beef, because in cooking it loses a great part of its flavour (though the broth is strong and good); nor does it seem as an article of diet to have had a particularly beneficial influence on the health, for the sanitary condition of the crew was equally satisfactory, and the number of scorbutic patients not materially increased when, towards the end of the voyage, the fresh stores were exhausted, and only salt and pickled rations were issued.

Compressed dried vegetables were of great benefit to the health of our men, and cannot be sufficiently recommended. The so-called melange d'équipage of Chollet, as well as sauer kraut, potatoes, and other vegetables, have an excellent taste, improve the soups when mixed with them, and are easily preserved, provided they be protected from the effect of damp. Hence it might be advisable to keep them enclosed in well-soldered tin boxes. The price of these vegetables is so moderate, that it is surprising they are not more generally employed.

The long-continued satisfactory state of health of the crew must also partly be sought for in the constant use of shower-baths. For this purpose, apertures, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, were bored in the planks of both the deck and forecastle, under which a perforated disc could be screwed, and above which a pail of water was placed. By these simple means every one was enabled to enjoy the luxury of a bath; when, however, the desire for that refreshment became general, so that the arrangement above-mentioned was insufficient, a hand fire-engine was made use of, so as to accommodate as many at once as might present themselves—a process which found great favour with the jolly tars, as affording abundant opportunities for fun and merriment.

VERTICAL SECTION OF THE FRIGATE "NOVARA."

The frigate Novara had been placed on the stocks in the arsenal of Venice in the month of February, 1845, and was launched in April, 1850. She was pierced for 42 guns, but during the voyage carried only thirty 30-pounders,5 and four of smaller calibre.

The principal dimensions of the frigate (Vienna measurement) are:—

The superficial area of the ship, or the load-water line, amounted to 5685.35 square feet; quantity of water displaced 2107 Austrian, or 2630 English tons. The superficial area of the principal sails amounted to 18,291 square feet.

The frigate proved herself to be an excellent sailer, as, of the various vessels which, throughout the voyage, sailed in company with us, only three clippers outstripped her.

The question may here be asked, why, in the present state of navigation, a sailing-vessel was preferred to a steamer for this voyage? The principal consideration which decided this selection was the greater disposable area which a sailing-vessel offers in comparison with a steamer of the same dimensions, in which coal and machinery occupy so large a space. On the present occasion, it will be perceived that what was specially wanted was room for as great a number of officers, cadets, and men as possible, who were, as has been stated, to make this voyage for improvement in nautical affairs. Plenty of space was also required for the numerous instruments and bulky collections of objects of natural history; while in most parts of the ocean which we were to traverse, the winds blow so regularly, that, with very rare exceptions, sails form the best motive power. The expense of fuel requisite for a steamer, and the trouble of replacing it during the voyage, are thus saved; whilst, finally, the space occupied by the men employed in the management of the machinery, and that required for the stowage of special stores, would be withdrawn from more important objects.

After the frigate had been properly fitted up in the arsenal of Pola, she sailed on the 15th March, 1857, for Trieste, where she cast anchor on the 17th in the Bay of Muggia. H.I.M.'s corvette Caroline, likewise fitted out at Pola for a voyage to the coast of South America and Western Africa, followed in her wake, and it was now seen that the frigate was a better sailer than the corvette, a circumstance so much the more satisfactory, that the latter had hitherto been considered the swiftest ship in our navy.

The unfavourable state of the weather interfered so much with the works which were to be finished at Trieste, that the embarkation of provisions, swinging the compasses, &c., &c., could only be proceeded with very slowly.

At last, the members of the Commission arrived, and the vessel only waited for sailing orders.

Before leaving on so interesting an enterprise, with which the most pleasing recollections of our lives will ever be associated, we had the gratification of being honoured by a visit on board from the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian. The commander of the Expedition introduced the officers and scientific gentlemen to his Imperial Highness, who addressed them in affecting terms, and concluded his remarks by expressing a hope that the frigate Novara would, with God's help, return happily from her mission to her own honour and that of the country.

The narrative of the voyage is now presented, and, probably, the results of the various scientific investigations will very shortly be offered to a discerning public, leaving it to them to judge how far we have succeeded in realizing the hopes of the illustrious Prince. But if we have not satisfied all the expectations entertained, it certainly was not from insufficiency of means; for everything was complete in that respect, and we owe it chiefly to the circumspection and kind care of the Commander-in-chief of our navy, that this enterprise had been so wisely planned, and its details brought in so short a time to such a degree of perfection that, during the whole voyage, it was not found necessary to make the slightest alteration in the original arrangements and regulations.

GEODETICAL AND ASTRONOMICAL INSTRUMENTS.

4. Of these instructions, "The physical and geognostical remarks," with which the Nestor of natural science honoured the voyagers of the Novara, being of a more general interest, are published at the end of this volume, together with the facsimile of an autograph letter of Baron von Humboldt to the commander of the Expedition.

5. The 30-pounder marine guns answer very nearly to the English 32-pounders.

6. 96 ⁴²³⁄₁₀₀₀ Austrian feet = 100 English.

LOOK-OUT MAN.

II.

From Trieste to Gibraltar.

Departure.—Fair Voyage down the Adriatic.—A Man lost and found again.—Passage through the Straits of Messina.—The Steamer Sta. Lucia returns to Trieste.—Regulations and Instructions for further Proceedings.—A Day on Board the Novara.—Sunrise.—Cleaning the Ship.—Mental and physical occupation.—Moonlight at sea.

The departure of the frigate was fixed for the 30th April, 1857, and H.I.M.'s corvette Caroline, Captain Kohen, was ordered to accompany her as far as the coast of South America. H.I.M's steamer, Sta. Lucia, Captain von Littrow, received orders to tow both ships as far as the extremity of the Straits of Messina to avoid loss of time, such as frequently arises in the Adriatic during the spring, from calms and unfavourable winds.

With the dawn of the day fixed for the departure of the ships, all was bustle on board; craft of all kinds hovered around, and relatives and friends had assembled in great numbers to take leave. The verdant and thickly-wooded slopes of the promenade to St. Andrea, near the shore, were thronged with spectators, and the fair and lovely picture of our native coast developed itself once more before our eyes, clad in all its charms of spring, as if to wish us a hearty farewell, an auspicious voyage, and a happy return!

At 8 o'clock a. m. we weighed anchor, and the steamer Sta. Lucia approached the Novara for the purpose of towing her from the Bay of Muggia into the roads of Trieste. She had all her colours displayed, and saluted the city of Trieste, Austria's chief and most important emporium, with 21 guns. The salute was answered from the castle, whilst the band on board struck up Haydn's beautiful hymn: "God preserve the Emperor!" The frigate moved out of the road-stead, accompanied by a great number of boats, and followed by the best wishes of the numerous crowds assembled on shore, and of all true patriots, who looked upon this Expedition as a cheering evidence that a new and energetic spirit of enterprise had arisen in their native country.

PLATE I.—TRACK FROM TRIESTE TO MADEIRA.

The corvette Caroline, which was waiting outside the roads, was attached to the frigate, and soon Trieste appeared like a dim cloud on the distant horizon. The outlines of the Carinthian Alps became fainter, and the excitement of the parting scene was calmed by that busy activity required from every one embarking on a long voyage, if he desires to attain any degree of comfort, however little, in the cramped and limited space of a crowded ship.

A perfect calm, a smooth sea, and a but-slightly-clouded sky, prognosticated fair weather, and promised leisure to complete those arrangements which had been left undone. The steamer Sta. Lucia performed her task of towing the two vessels most satisfactorily, and, favoured by the prevailing currents of wind and water, we made five miles an hour, and came, on the day of departure, in sight of the promontory of Pola.

The passage down the Adriatic was on the whole most pleasant, with the exception of some showers of rain near the heights of Isola Grossa; which, however, on this occasion saluted us only with a slight puff of wind. The ship moved so gently and quietly on her way, that those occupying the lower cabins could scarcely have fancied themselves at sea, had they not been made aware of it by other impressions.

On the 1st of May, the crew became highly excited by a man being missed, when the morning watch was called. Some thought he had, from fear of a slight punishment hanging over him, jumped overboard, but as nothing of the kind had been observed by the watch on deck, every corner was searched, but without success, upon which the man was given over as lost. When, however, the dinner hour arrived, and the tables and benches were being removed from the lower deck, how great was the surprise, when the culprit was discovered crouching among them! A peal of laughter roused the poor fellow, who this time was let off with the fright and the punishment of being made an object of ridicule by his comrades.

On the 3rd of May, being clear of the Adriatic, the steamer Sta. Lucia was at midnight despatched to Corfu to complete her store of coal, whilst we sailed for Cape Spartivento, on the Calabrian coast, which had been assigned as our rendezvous. On the 5th, we sighted this the most southerly promontory of Italy, when, in consequence of a fresh breeze, the sea began to make itself rather disagreeably felt. The novices on board became somewhat alarmed. A feeble voice was even heard, which endeavoured to prove from this phenomenon that man is a creature made for terra firma, and not for the watery element; but this excellent idea came rather late; mankind are obliged to submit to existing circumstances, and this thought alone held out some hope, that a longer stay on board would prove the best cure for the evil. Such indeed was the case; though pale faces, want of appetite, and even worse effects, were produced, whenever the ship made a heavier roll than usual. But these slight inconveniences of sea life became rarer and rarer, till at last they appeared only in really stiff gales. On the 7th the steamer Sta. Lucia returned and took us again in tow.

The weather during our passage through the charming straits of Messina was delightful. The colossal Etna exhibited in all its glory its snow-capped summit, gilded by the rays of the rising sun, and Messina shone with all the attractions of its splendid situation. The coast of this part of Italy is mostly bare and rugged, the broken outlines of the mountains imparting to the landscape that characteristic peculiarity which makes so deep an impression on the mind. We passed the famous Charybdis, in which a multitude of dolphins were disporting themselves. The neighbouring coast formed a brilliant panorama, and we kept so close in shore as to be able to distinguish the movements of the people. The appearance of our three goodly ships seemed to have attracted the attention of the inhabitants, for they stood in groups in the streets and squares of Reggio and Villa San Giovanni, saluting us by waving their handkerchiefs. When towards the evening we had passed the straits, we could descry the Neapolitan coast as far as Monte Bulgario, in the Bay of Policastro, and distinguish the imposing Stromboli, with its volume of smoke, far on the Western horizon.

The following morning found us in sight of the small island of Alicudi, situated on the north of Sicily. The estimable captain of the Lucia came on board to take leave, on his return to Trieste. The steamer, being relieved of her burden, made her way briskly towards her destination; and, before an hour had elapsed, we could perceive nothing but a small streak of smoke in the haze of the horizon.

With light breezes, we came, on the following day, in sight of the island of Ustica. Sea-gulls (Thalassidroma pelagica) enlivened the scene, as they, from time to time, flew after the garbage thrown from the ship, or sought for sea-nettles and other small inhabitants of the sea's surface. These birds much resemble our land swallows, and their movements are so graceful, that one cannot but admire them, especially when they lightly touch the agitated water with their little webbed feet, and directly, as if repelled, withdraw. The muscular power of these feathered creatures is truly wonderful; they follow the ship for entire days continually on the wing, ever on the watch to snatch at the little food which the sea seems but scantily to supply to them.

"PALINURUS".

Whilst we were passing down the Mediterranean, a great deal of time was employed in drawing up regulations, and in digesting all those instructions which had reached the Commander of the Expedition from all sides, and by which we were to be guided in our future proceedings.

The scientific gentlemen were the first who received certain rules for their guidance; for, life on board a ship, and especially of a man-of-war, is so entirely different from that on shore—the etiquette and usages practised appear, to those unused to the sea, so vexatious and annoying, that it was absolutely necessary to inform them of the regulations which are essential in order to keep so singular an organization as that of a ship at sea in working order. Erelong every one perceived, that the matutinal annoyance of holystoning the decks, the daily cleaning of everything on board, &c., are measures of importance, which contribute materially to the preservation of the health of the crew, and that a strict observance of discipline is absolutely necessary to exercise their powers, and thus to fit them for all eventualities.

For the better accommodation of the naturalists, a place on the lower gun-deck was fitted up for those operations which, on account of the limited space and noxious exhalations, could not well be performed in the cabins.

We had a large quantity of alcohol on board, destined for the preservation of interesting objects of natural history. In order to prevent any calamity by fire arising therefrom, the whole quantity was put in a large iron tank placed in the hold, and covered over with sand. It will, however, be seen in the sequel, that even this precaution proved insufficient to protect the ship from the ignition of this highly-combustible substance.

The meteorological observations, and those connected with the physical geography of the sea, were entrusted to four officers, who, like those attached to the watches, had alternately to be at their posts, and had, at prescribed hours, to observe the barometer, thermometer, and psychrometer, as well as the temperature of the surface of the sea, the state of the sky and the ocean, and to note down the obtained results. One of the junior officers was intrusted with the nautical observations on shipboard, as well as the astronomical and magnetical on shore.

The midshipmen were at the same time trained by study and practice, so as to enable them to assist the officers in their duties. Besides the men on the look-out, one of the midshipmen was employed on the same service. In stormy nights, when the wind is howling, and rain or snow falling, this post is certainly not very pleasant, but is, as may readily be imagined, most important.

Life in the limited space of a ship, completely cut off from the external world, is so peculiar and interesting to those unacquainted with the sea, that we will endeavour to describe a day passed on board the Novara, from the instant when at daybreak the bustle and activity begin, till the late hour when night reminds one of repose, those sweet moments which carry the voyager to his distant home on the wings of a dream.

As the sonorous bell strikes the fifth hour of the morning, the crew are called on deck by the boatswain's whistle, the hammocks are slung up and stowed away, and the work begins.

This is the busiest time of the day, and for the mere spectator the most uncomfortable. On all sides scouring, rubbing, sweeping are going on, floods of water are streaming along the decks, and he who is not as yet familiar with these cleaning processes, runs some risk of a ducking as soon as he makes his appearance outside his cabin. These morning ablutions are, however, indispensable evils on board ship, for cleanliness is a condition essential to the preservation of health, and even the quantity of humidity which penetrates the timber, and renders the air damp, appears to be less injurious than the omission of these daily scourings.

When the cleaning of the various parts of the ship is finished, the idlers, and such of the officers as are off duty, appear on deck, whither people come to enjoy the fresh air, and to greet the opening day. It may, however, be permitted to observe, that a sunrise at sea, notwithstanding its various charms, is by far less imposing than the same scene on a lofty mountain, where the veil of night seems to vanish as if by magic, and luxuriant nature lies at our feet like a smiling infant awaking from a lovely dream. That wild majesty of scenery, that overpowering grandeur of gigantic mountain forms, such as one sees in the Swiss or Tyrolese Alps, is wanting at sea, where the rising sun pours his beams only over a boundless world of water.

The sailors breakfast at 7, the officers at 8, and the Commander at 9. At the latter hour the bugle sounds the order to "clear the ship," when the cleaning of arms, guns, and all other articles of metal connected with the ship's armoury, begins. During this process the band plays cheerful airs, so that the work is done whilst keeping time with the music, which serves to lighten the labour. This duty requires to be completed within forty-five minutes, and terminates with an inspection of the men and their arms.

This being over, officers and midshipmen off duty assemble together with the naturalists in the reading-room. Most of the books in the library referred to those countries likely to be visited by the Expedition, so that every one might previously obtain useful information relative to their physical, historical, and social conditions.

The naturalists employ the greater part of the day in their cabins, noting down their observations, and preparing for those to be made in the course of the voyage. The crew are kept in activity by being drilled and otherwise occupied.

The men dine at 12; the dinner of the officers is served up at 3, and that of the Commodore at half-past 3 o'clock p. m. The remainder of the afternoon is spent in prosecuting the labours begun in the morning. Thus steals on the evening, when a general assemblage takes place on deck, for air and exercise.

SEAMEN OFF DUTY.

The occurrences of the day, the sunset, the curious formation of the clouds, or the bewitching beauty of a brilliant tropical sky at night, form interesting topics for lively discussion. It is, however, rather daring to institute a comparison between the splendour of the sky in the tropics and that of our higher latitudes. For, most men become more or less unjust towards the beauties of a new and foreign natural scenery, in consequence of their not being able to divest themselves of former impressions produced in them by phenomena of a similar nature. What impressions are, for instance, deeper in young and old, and excite more delightful recollections than the starry sky of home? And can it be disputed that the association of ideas has a most powerful effect upon the impressions made by those phenomena of nature which are so peculiarly attractive and so deeply fixed in the human mind?

The conversation generally becomes more lively on those evenings when the moon, placid friend of the sailor, appears on the distant horizon, shedding her silvery beams over the unbroken expanse of water. The influence which she exercises on the state of the weather, even the prejudices and superstitions connected with our satellite, offer subjects of interesting debate; involuntarily the mariner looks with grateful feelings towards that heavenly luminary, the mild soothing light of which diminishes the number of his anxious nights, protects him in present, warns him of remote dangers, and influences so powerfully that vast element on which he passes the greater part of his life. Indeed he who has ever spent a dark and stormy night on the ocean, when the ship, lashed by the fury of the waves, and borne resistlessly along, stands in constant peril of coming in violent collision with a vessel similarly circumstanced, or of being dashed to pieces on some iron-bound coast of rugged rock, easily comprehends and will excuse the sailor who ascribes to the moonlight somewhat of a supernatural and mysterious power.

In this manner, and notwithstanding the continued sameness, days and months glide away like hours, until we again cast anchor, and only the work accomplished gives an idea of the length of time which has been passed at sea.

Sunday alone breaks the monotony of life on board, when, after the diurnal cleaning of the ship, and the inspection of the crew, the officers, and all the men who are not on duty, assemble for divine service on the lower gun-deck, where the chaplain says mass on a temporary altar, whilst the ship's band performs sacred music. In the afternoon the men off duty amuse themselves for a couple of hours with the "tombola," a game much liked by our sailors. Between 6 and 7 p. m. the band plays on deck, whilst the sailors are cutting grotesque figures to the music. The singular capers by which all evince their happiness; the good-humoured awkwardness with which each clings to the brawny arm of his companion; the mock graceful air those who enact the gentler sex assume in the dance, and, finally, the affected attitude with which the cavaliers bow to their partners as if they really were of the gentler sex—all this is most ludicrous and amusing. The playing the national dance "Monferina" always elicits a particularly hearty reception. There is a peculiar charm in national melodies, even though they awaken no political reminiscences like the Marseillaise, or the Rakoczy; they electrify alike the educated and the men of the people; a thousand pleasing recollections suddenly crowd into the memory, and when the well-known tunes strike the ear, the heart seems to live again in bygone times! As if touched by magic, the sailor from the Adriatic, as soon as the Monferina is struck up, seizes his neighbour by the arm with a noisy shout and hurls him about in wild hilarity; his thoughts seem as if flying towards his distant home, where, in the country inn, with a buxom lass on his shoulder, he has waltzed away many a happy hour. The whole village, with all its familiar faces, seems to revive in his memory during the playing of the melody—now he fills his glass; now he clinks it merrily with that of his companion; now he presses his sweetheart more closely to his side: Lo! suddenly a shrill whistle pierces the air, the music ceases, the call is heard "to fall in," and the yet dance-stricken sailor, suddenly, as if awakening from a sweet reverie, is once more standing on the deck of the Novara!

The frigate, in the Mediterranean also, maintained her superiority as a sailer. The corvette Caroline was able to keep the prescribed distance from the Novara only by the latter reefing some of her sails. As some magnetic observations were to be made at Gibraltar, and, as we had to ascertain the results of the various chronometers on board, on the 12th of May we signalled the corvette to take her own time and rejoin us at Gibraltar, as we were anxious to avoid unnecessary detention.

The acquisitions of the naturalists had, as yet, been very scanty: to their great annoyance they could not even obtain any of the tortoises, which, from time to time, approached the ship, though they were repeatedly fired at, and on one occasion a boat was launched, in the hope of catching some of them. The specimens which we saw were from fifteen to twenty inches in diameter; they mostly floated quietly on the surface, and seemed sleeping or basking themselves in the sun.

The night of the 16th May was exceedingly boisterous, and almost tangible darkness prevailed; thunder, lightning, and occasionally strong easterly squalls, raged furiously, and only subsided towards the morning, when it cleared up with fresh southerly breezes. Not being far from Cape de Gatt, on the Spanish coast, prudence required us to change course, and, during the continuance of stormy weather, to keep at a respectful distance from the shore. Here a merchantman, apparently an American, bore down so close upon us, that, in the darkness, an unpleasant collision seemed unavoidable. However, we tacked about, and thus, fortunately avoiding our dangerous neighbour, safely proceeded on our course.

It is truly astonishing how often merchantmen, entirely forgetful of their own safety, from want of caution, or presumption, or it would occasionally seem, sheerly from acting upon peculiar and abnormal principles of navigation, wantonly expose ship, men, and cargo to many dangers, which might easily be avoided, particularly in cases where no tacking is required, and only a slight touch of the rudder would suffice to prevent a collision, which is always attended with danger to the smaller ship. In this respect the North Americans are very unpleasant neighbours on account of their national vanity, and the Dutch for their phlegmatic temperament and the indifference they evince on such occasions.

On the 18th of May, the small rocky island of Alboran, in the narrow part of the sea between Africa and Spain, was observed; being flat and without vegetation, it is scarcely perceptible, and the land-fall during the night should be carefully avoided. The erection of a lighthouse on this island would certainly be regarded as a great boon by all who navigate the Mediterranean.

On the 19th of May, the sea suddenly assumed a peculiar orange colour; a dust-like covering was observed on the surface of the water, and at some depth white points might be seen, mingling with each other in the wake of the ship. Clouds of this orange-like matter appeared spread upon the sea, which thereby lost its usual transparency. On closer examination this phenomenon appeared to arise from a mass consisting of myriads of minute animalculæ, which had a yellow opaque kernel, the gelatinous covering of which was transparent and colourless. A quantity of sea-water impregnated with this matter, having been brought into a dark room, gave out a light, and when agitated, such brightness proceeded from it, as justified the anticipation that, during the night, the whole sea would be illuminated. Accordingly the wake of the ship was illuminated by a wonderful stream of light, in the depths of which larger masses of luminous matter could be discerned, whilst on the surface there was a sparkling and glittering, as if all the stars of the firmament were reflected in the water.

This phosphorescence of the sea, for the explanation of which we are chiefly indebted to Professor Ehrenberg, proceeds for the most part from the emanations of light from molluscæ of the genus Medusa, and other living phosphoric animalculæ; sometimes, however, as for instance in Venice, it arises from the putrescent fibres of decayed molluscæ, and other organisms in a state of decomposition.

On the evening of the 20th the splendid Ceuta Light was seen, which, even at a distance of twenty miles, looks as if it were quite near. This lighthouse is of the utmost importance to ships emerging into the Atlantic from the Mediterranean, as the current is exceedingly powerful, and during the night is apt imperceptibly to carry a vessel out of her course. On the morning of the 21st, the ship lay in a calm before the rock of Gibraltar. Barren, gray, and gloomy rose now before our sight this rocky, gun-studded, colossal sentinel of that vigilantly-prudent, energetic, and jealous Power, which is so constantly seeking to extend her rule wherever her own interests are concerned, or where she thinks it advisable to make herself respected by other nations.

A light breeze sprang up, and at half-past 3 p. m. the anchorage, eleven and a half fathoms in depth, was reached. The frigate now lay in front of the Alameda or public gardens of Gibraltar, situated near the town gate, called the Ragged Staff. This anchorage is tolerably safe at this season, but in autumn and winter, as well as generally in strong easterly winds, it is not to be recommended, it being preferable to haul further in towards the place where the merchant-vessels usually lie. We saluted the English flag on the fortress with twenty-one guns, which were immediately answered from the ramparts. There were no English men-of-war in the Roads, except the sloop Curlew, Capt. Horton. The following morning our consort, the Caroline, anchored in our vicinity.

The first day of the arrival of a man-of-war in harbour is attended with much inconvenience, particularly if she carries the flag of the Commodore, or it happens that the mail packets are arriving or departing, or that there are many ships of war in the Roads. The latter was not now the case, but so many visitors, letters, and newspapers arrived at once, that neither the one nor the other could be thoroughly enjoyed.

The local authorities, the governor, Sir James Fergusson, at their head, were extremely obliging and attentive; Mr. Falkland, an officer of the Engineers, was placed at our disposal; a specially-reserved site was assigned us for astronomical and magnetical observations; huts were erected by the workmen of the arsenal for the protection of the instruments, and in short everything, calculated to promote scientific labours, was provided. The Chancellor of the Austrian Consulate, Mr. John Frembly, himself a geologist, proved likewise to be of great service to our scientific men: and it was considered a fortunate omen to have found, at this our first anchorage, so much sympathy with the objects of the Expedition.

VIEW OF GIBRALTAR FROM SEAWARD.

ROCK OF GIBRALTAR.

III.

Gibraltar.

Stay from the 20th to the 30th May, 1857.

Political Significance of the Rock.—Courtesy of the British Authorities.—Fortifications.—Signal Stations.—The only place in Europe frequented by Monkeys.—Calcareous Caves.—Chief Entrances into the Town.—Shutting the Town Gates.—Public Establishments.—Inhabitants.—Elliott's Gardens.—The Isthmus, or Neutral Ground.—Algeziras.—Ceuta.—Commerce and Navigation.—Excellent regulation in the English Navy relative to Officers' Outfit.—Small-pox appears on Board the Caroline.—Departure from Gibraltar.—A Fata Morgana.—The Novara passes the Straits.—Take leave of Europe.—Voyage to Madeira.—Floating Bottles to ascertain the Currents.—Arrival in the Roads of Funchal.

This remarkable promontory, which in our days has obtained so much political importance, the Calpe of the ancients, constituted of old, with the opposite Abyla,7 the so-called pillars of Hercules, celebrated, at the same time, as the boundary of the then-known world. It derives its name from the corrupted Arabic Gebel (mountain) and Tarik, the name of a Moorish conqueror, who had pitched his camp here (a. d. 711). Like a colossal giant, guarding the portal of Europe, and converted, by the energy and ingenuity of the British, into an almost impregnable outpost, this precipitous rock has, as regards the Mediterranean, the same high strategic importance for that great maritime people, as Heligoland for the German Ocean, Aden for the Red Sea, Ceylon and Singapore for the Indian Archipelago, Hongkong for the Chinese waters, or the Cape and St. Helena for the Atlantic Ocean.

Gibraltar was already strongly fortified, when it belonged to the Andalusian kingdom, but its grandest fortifications date from the treaty of Utrecht (1713), when it became an appanage of the British crown. Stupendous and incomparable are the works which since that period have been executed on it, though the calcareous formation of the locality and its numerous caves may have considerably facilitated their construction.

The English authorities, who so kindly assisted in the scientific researches, obligingly furnished each individual of the frigate's staff with a written permission to inspect the fortifications as often as they pleased, and thereby afforded them the particular gratification of being able to view and admire these vast structures in all their details.

Excellent and well-kept roads lead to the principal fortifications, which only begin at an elevation of several hundred feet above the town. The galleries, hewn in the solid rock, forming a kind of casemates, are of such breadth and height that they may be conveniently traversed by a man on horseback with his hat on. They have been constructed at an immense expense of labour and money, and are designated by various names, as "Upper gallery," "Lower gallery," "Queen's gallery," "St. George's Hall," and so on. Their extent is estimated at an English mile, but is probably much greater. Besides these galleries, passages run for miles in the interior of the rock, affording the garrison a thoroughly-protected connection with all points that may chance to be threatened.

The grandest and most imposing of these marvellous excavations are the "Queen's gallery" and "St. George's Hall." According to carved inscriptions, most of them were begun and completed between the years 1783 and 1789. At the period of our visit, there were mounted on the different fortifications 707 guns, about one hundred of which peeped out of the smaller embrasures. Since that date, however, the number is said to have been increased so as to amount now to about 1500.

During the stay of the Novara, it fortunately happened that the birthday of Queen Victoria was celebrated, and thus an opportunity was offered of seeing the fiery mountain in full activity. Though the occasion was peaceable, yet the imposing spectacle gave a tolerable idea of the elements of destruction which Gibraltar could put in action if really attacked. The governor of the fortress, surrounded by a brilliant staff, in which the Spanish governor of Algeziras and his officers played but a sorry part, reviewed the garrison, consisting of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, to the number of from 5000 to 6000 men; and whilst the troops defiled in slow and quick step, lightnings and thunders issued from all the crevices and embrasures of the artificially-perforated rock; huge volumes of dense smoke followed, and a rolling subterraneous rumbling gave the mountain exactly the character of a volcano suddenly burst into action. The echo of these salvoes of rejoicing must have been heard, not only in the adjacent parts of Spain, but also on the more remote coast of Africa; and he who was ignorant of the real cause, might have supposed it a grand rehearsal of that fearful tragedy which the English seem determined to perform in the event of an attack. The supposition, however, that the guns of Gibraltar are able entirely to command the Straits is erroneous, for these, at their narrowest part, are 12½ miles wide, and not even the Armstrong guns, with which the fortress has lately been furnished, have so extensive a range. The English are, however, able to command the Straits by a fleet, which would find in the Bay of Gibraltar a sufficiently safe and roomy anchorage.

From the fortifications, a narrow and rather steep path leads to the telegraph station, at an elevation of 1300 feet above the level of the sea. Steamers and men-of-war, as soon as visible, are signalled from this point by means of immense balls and flags. It would be very difficult to signal merchantmen in the same way, as, during a prevailing westerly wind, multitudes of ships often appear to the eastward of the rock, anxiously waiting for a favourable easterly breeze to carry them through the Straits; in the same way the westerly horizon is sometimes crowded with ships, prevented by contrary winds from entering the Mediterranean.

We found at the station an Aneroid-barometer, and a thermometer. The advantages for navigation and physical science of extensive meteorological observations, regularly made, are so evident, that it is astonishing to see how often opportunities are neglected for making them, such as are offered here.

There was no opportunity for seeing any of those families of monkeys, the occasional appearance of which on the Rock of Gibraltar has given rise to tales found in books of travel of the existence of a submarine communication, through which this single representative of the genus in Europe has found its way to this rock from Africa. Sometimes, however, during easterly winds, single individuals are observed on the highest peaks on the eastern side of the rock, where it is completely inaccessible; probably the remnants of that species (Inuus ecaudatus), which at some former time, either by chance, or human agency, have found their way hither from the Moorish coast.

The calcareous caves are very remarkable. That on the western side, called St. Michael's, situated at a height of 800 feet, is the most important. It contains beautiful stalactite formations, and seems to be of considerable extent; it has, however, not been closely examined hitherto, as only a small part is conveniently accessible. St. Martin's Cave, on the south-east, likewise about 800 feet above the level of the sea, is smaller, but its stalactites are of a purer whiteness. A third was discovered a few years since on the eastern side of the rock at a height of only 80 feet, the lower portion of which consists of accumulations of sand and recent shells. There have also been found bones and teeth of large herbivorous animals.

ROCK CAVERN IN GIBRALTAR.

The characteristic vegetation of the mountain is Spanish broom (Spartium junceum), the yellow blossom of which strikes the eye pleasingly at a great distance. There is also one species of cactus, and one of the dwarf palm (Opuntia vulgaris, and Chamærops humilis), which grows in great abundance, and forms, on the south face of the rock, almost the only vegetation, whilst, on account of difference of temperature, it is altogether absent on the remaining sides.

Gibraltar has little to attract strangers to settle; barracks, military store-houses, and fortifications, render the appearance of the place peculiarly monotonous, the more so that there are no elegant buildings, or fine shops, on the rock. There was nothing observed, however, to confirm the statement, in a celebrated geographical work, copied by all later compilers, that "most of the houses are painted black, to soften the glare of the sun, and prevent an attacking enemy having a distinct view of the place." The town, which is built in terraces on the side of the rock, is accessible only from three points. The greatest portion of the traffic passes through the so-called Old Mole at the north end, whilst the entrances on the south are generally used by men-of-war sailors only. All are opened at 5 in the morning, and, according to the season, shut between 7 and 8 in the evening, precisely twenty-five minutes after the first signal-gun. This closing of the gate is attended with ceremonies verging on the comic. A broad-shouldered corporal, carrying in his hand a heavy bunch of immense keys, marches, visibly impressed with the importance of his mission, in measured steps, accompanied by a number of red jackets with fixed bayonets, towards the massive town-gate; the bridge is then, with much ado, drawn up, and the horribly-creaking gate, with great exertion, closed, bolted, and finally locked. After "gun fire" no one can leave the town by the Old Mole; at 10 p. m., however, and at midnight, a little postern is opened, through which those jolly stragglers, who have forgotten in merry company the measure of time, may slip out to return to their floating abodes. From this hour till morning all communication with the harbour is arrested, and the utter impossibility (except in extraordinary cases) of leaving the town after this hour, has given rise amongst the people to the saying, "There is only one thing more difficult than to get out of the town after midnight, and that is to get in."

There are in the city two Anglican churches, one Wesleyan, one Presbyterian, two Catholic chapels, and two synagogues. The garrison library, where likewise a great number of journals and magazines are kept, possesses 22,000 volumes, amongst them several very rare and costly works, especially of ancient Spanish literature. It was founded in 1793 by Captain Drinkwater, and has been hitherto kept up by private subscriptions and the profits arising from a printing-establishment attached to it.