Bibliografische Information der Deutschen Nationalbibliothek: Die Deutsche Nationalbibliothek verzeichnet diese Publikation in der Deutschen Nationalbibliografie; detaillierte bibliografische Daten sind im Internet über www.dnb.de abrufbar.
New edition © 2021 Sven Jungclaus
Illustrations by Michael Ross
Herstellung und Verlag:
BoD – Books on Demand GmbH, Norderstedt
ISBN 9783755717799
All rights reserved. It is not permitted to save, copy or otherwise reproduce this book or any part of it in any form whatsoever, whether for private or educational use, without the prior written consent of the copyright holder.
| Preface |
| Taking measurements |
| Pants |
| Chino-pants |
| Jeans |
| Single-breasted vest |
| Double-breasted vest |
| Shirt |
| Sleeve for a shirt |
| Collar for a shirt |
| T-shirt |
| Underpants |
| Single-breasted jacket |
| Lining pockets for the jacket |
| Sleeve for a jacket |
| Collar for the single-breasted jacket |
| Double-breasted jacket |
| Collar for the double-breasted jacket |
| Single-breasted coat |
| Double-breasted coat |
| Raglan coat |
| Trenchcoat |
| Tie, bow tie, plastron |
| How to tie a tie and a bow tie |
| Etiquette: what to wear? |
| Washing and care symbols |
| Stain removal |
| Measurement table |
| Abbreviations |
| Biography |
| Book recommendation |
| Index |
In the age of global mass production, this word unfolds its charm again. While there seem to be tailor-made solutions for everything today, in the 18th and 19th centuries, there was no alternative to custom work. Before industrial production, clothing was always individually adapted and later turned into a luxury item - as a counterpoint to commoditized attire.
In the meantime, craftsmanship is appreciated again. Handmade clothes receives new attention and is often the favorite piece. But without an optimal cut, the best tailoring does not work as desired. Patterns are the DNA of a garment, a kind of architecture for textile ideas. The final fit is a successful mix of subtle observation, precise measurement and skillful implementation in an individualized pattern.
In this book, practical step-by-step instructions ensure that inexperienced cutters can work out the perfect fit for suits, coats, pants and more - based on individual body measurements. Over the years cutter and master tailor Sven Jungclaus has refined his know-how in a practical way and is now passing on his knowledge in the form of this book in an understandable way.
Have fun creating your pattern!
Just using a measuring tape is not enough. The perfect fit of a garment depends on several factors: on one hand, on the tailor's skills. On the other hand, on the cutter's know-how, who incorporates his experience in the pattern and simultaneously considers the characteristics of the respective material. First and foremost, however, correct and conscientious measures are essential. This is not just about the numbers determined by tape measure but also about what a cutter sees. The experienced consideration of the respective stature and posture are fundamental ingredients for the perfect cut.
Taking measurements already begins with the body's hidden analysis and the individual posture when a customer enters the tailor shop. As soon as someone knows that he will be measured, he automatically turns himself straight. This artificial posture falsifies the end result, and the awakening ensues at the first fitting when the garment's balance does not match the customer.
There are a few tricks to distract the customer and, at the same time to determine optimal measurements: It is important not to measure in front of a mirror; this only unnecessarily awakens the vanity. In addition, there is nothing to see before the first fitting anyway. Finally, it helps to engage the customer into a conversation and thus distract him. On the other hand, the tailor should, of course, focus on taking the measurements, despite the small talk.
The calculation of the measurements in this book is more or less for the theory of proportions. For bodies that deviate from the 'norm' (broad shoulders, strong back, strong chest, etc.), the measured body measurements should be used instead of the calculated ones. The necessary fullness is already included in the calculation. Make sure to compare the pattern with your body measurements after drafting. In this way, you can correct the pattern before cutting in the event of a possible mistake.
The waistline is measured exactly around the waist, at the narrowest point just above the hipbone. Here a waist measuring tape is fixed to determine more measurements.
The waistband is measured at the height of the desired position, exactly where the waistband of the pants should sit. Again, this is very individual for each client.
The hip width, or seat, is measured horizontally around the strongest point of the buttocks.
When measuring the neck, care must be taken that the tape measure is not set too high. The circumference is measured at the base of the neck (on the skin), directly above the collarbone. It helps to keep two fingers between the tape measure and neck not to measure too narrow.
When measuring the chest, the tape measure will be placed around the strongest chest point, then passed under the arms and slightly higher at the back.
Measure the sleeve length from the shoulder bone over a slightly bent elbow to the wrist.
Mostly, the customer knows his height. However, if you do not trust this information, it is measured from the top of the head to the sole of the foot, preferably without shoes. Otherwise, simply subtract the heel height.
The nape-to-knee is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back across the seat to the knee.
The 7th cervical vertebra is the vertebra protruding slightly at the back of the neck-in the pattern constructions: it is called the cervical-vertebra-point CVP.
To measure the depth of scye, push a piece of cardboard under the customer's arm and measure from the 7th cervical vertebra along the middle of the back to the upper edge of the cardboard.
The length of the waist is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the middle of the back to the tape measure fixed at the waist.
The entire shoulder width is measured from the left shoulder bone across the back to the right shoulder bone.
It is measured across the back in a relaxed position, from the left to the right arm.
The taken measurements should be used in the pattern instead of the calculated ones with clients that deviate from the 'normal' clothing sizes (broad shoulders, strong back, etc.). The calculated measurements are more used for the theory of proportions.
The shoulder width is measured from the neckline to the shoulder bone.
The chest width is measured across the strongest breast point from the left to the right arm.
For strong biceps, this measure should be read necessarily. It is measured around the strongest point of the upper arm.
The taken measurements should be used in the pattern instead of the calculated ones with clients that deviate from the 'normal' clothing sizes (broad shoulders, strong back, etc.).
The depth of the breast/chest is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (see explanation NTK, →) over the shoulder toward the front to the point of the breast.
The nape-to-front-waist is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra over the shoulder across the breast point to the tape measure fixed at the waist. For drafting a pattern, you will need the measurement front-waist-length FWL. To determine this measure, just subtract the back neckline (FWL = NTFW - back neckline).
Pay attention to the seam allowances on the shoulders of the jacket and coat.
First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the back pants' length is measured from the waistband seam to the floor.
(If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)
First, fix the tape measure at the point where the trousers' waistband should sit. Now the outside leg can be measured on the side from the waistband seam down to the floor.
(If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)
To measure the inside leg, have the customer pull up the pants into the crotch. Then it is easy to determine the measurement on the inside of the leg from the crotch to the floor. (If the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted.)
First, fix a tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the front length of the pants is measured from the waistband seam down to the floor. (If the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted.)
The difference between OUTL and INL results in the rise (see →).
The thigh circumference is measured around the strongest point of the thigh, about 10 cm below the crotch.
The hem circumference is measured at the bottom of the trouser's hem according to customer requirements.
The measurements and further information can be found on →.
