This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all.
The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.
The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface four sides and surface two sides.
Piano Bench in Black Walnut
The piano bench shown in the accompanying picture was made of black walnut and was finished natural. The finish was applied in the following manner: First, all the parts were well scraped and sandpapered, then the surface was covered with a coating of boiled linseed oil. After this had stood several hours, or until it had had time to penetrate the wood, the surplus liquid was wiped off with a flannel cloth. After the oil had stood for 48 hours, a thin coat of shellac was applied and allowed to harden overnight. The next morning this shellac was sandpapered lightly with No. 00 paper and a coat of floor wax was applied according to the directions which are found upon every can. Two more coats of wax were applied after intervals of half an hour and the finish was completed. The effect is very pleasing. The oil brings out the rich color of the wood and the shellac and wax serve to preserve the color. The following stock is needed:
1 top, 1 by 16-1/2 by 40-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
2 rails, 7/8 by 4-1/4 by 13 in., S-2-S.
2 lower rails, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
1 stretcher, 7/8 by 3-3/4 by 36 in., S-2-S.
6 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 11 in., S-2-S.
With the exception of the legs all the stock is specified mill-planed to thickness upon two surfaces. The legs are specified planed on four sides. Square the legs to length and the rails, stretcher, slats, etc., to width and length.
Detail of the Piano Bench
Lay out and work the tenons of the rails and stretcher. The slats are best made without tenons, the whole end of each slat being "housed" into the rails. The reason for this is obvious—it is a difficult matter to fit two or more pieces between fixed parts when their ends are tenoned. When the ends are housed any slight variation in the lengths adjusts itself. It is necessary, however, to chisel the sides of the mortises carefully, but this is a simple matter compared with getting the shoulders of the tenons, etc., all just alike.
Assemble the parts, using good hot glue. Put the ends of the bench together first. When the glue has hardened on these, place the stretcher and side rails. Fasten the top to the frame from the under side, either by glued blocks and screws or by angle irons.
A library table of neat appearance and correct proportions is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. This table looks best when finished in quarter-sawed oak, although any of the other furniture woods can be used if desired. If the material is ordered from the mill cut to length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor can be avoided. Order the following pieces:
4 legs, 2 by 2 by 30-1/4 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 1-1/8 by 30 by 42 in., S-4-S.
2 end pieces, 3/4 by 17-1/8 by 29 in., S-2-S.
2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.
2 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 25-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 lower brace, 3/4 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.
4 shelves, 3/4 by 7 by 29 in., S-4-S.
8 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 17-1/8 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5-3/4 by 25 in., S-4-S.
4 drawer sides, 3/8 by 3-3/4 by 14 in., soft wood.
2 drawer ends, 3/8 by 3-3/8 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
2 drawer bottoms, 3/8 by 13-1/4 by 24-1/4 in., soft wood.
2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 23-1/2 in., soft wood.
2 drawer supports, 3/4 by 2 by 25 in., soft wood.
Detail of the Library Table
Start work on the legs by beveling the tops and squaring them up and laying out the mortises for the shelves as shown in section BB. Care should be taken to get the legs mortised in pairs and all cut the same height. This is best done by placing the four legs side by side with the ends square, and then laying out the mortises across all four at once with a try-square.
The Finished Library Table
The table top is made of several boards which are doweled and glued together. Be careful to get the best side of each board up and have the joints a tight fit. The corners should be cut out for the posts as shown. The posts are to be fastened to the board by means of screws. The holes can be counterbored for the heads and then plugged. The top rails are also fastened to the top board by means of screws.
The end pieces can now be made. Two or more boards will have to be glued together for these. The top corners will have to be cut to fit about the top rails. Cleats can be used in fastening them to the top board. The shelves also have the corners cut to fit into the mortises in the posts. They are held to the end boards by means of screws.
If the parts all fit perfectly square and tight, they can be glued and screwed together, which will complete the table except for the slats and drawers. The slats can be fastened on with nails, then the heads covered with fancy nails which can be secured for this purpose. The drawer supports can now be put in. They are screwed to the end boards as shown. A bottom brace should be fastened under the lower shelves to help steady the table. The two drawers are made as shown in the detail sketch. No handles are needed as the lower edge of the front board can be used for pulling them out.
When the table is complete it should be carefully gone over with fine sandpaper and all rough spots removed. Scrape the glue from about the joints as finish will not take where there is any glue. Apply the stain preferred or the one that matches the other furniture. This can be any of the many stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
Dresser Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak
A design of a princess dresser that is well proportioned and of pleasing appearance is shown in the accompanying sketch and detail drawing. The cost is very moderate and if a mill is not too far away, a great amount of labor can be saved by ordering the material ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be as follows:
4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 27 in., S-4-S.
1 top board, 3/4 by 17 by 37 in., S-2-S.
5 side rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 end panels, 1/4 by 16-1/4 by 16-3/4 in., S-4-S.
1 drawer partition, 1 by 7-3/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/2 by 36 in., S-2-S.
2 mirror supports, 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 30 in., S-4-S.
2 side pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 42 in., S-4-S.
2 end pieces for mirror, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 drawer fronts, 3/4 by 7 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 drawer front, 3/4 by 7 by 36 in., S-4-S.
1 20 by 38 bevel mirror.
The following pieces may be of any soft wood:
5 drawer slides, 3/4 by 2 by 17 in.
6 drawer sides, 1/2 by 7 by 17 in.
2 drawer bottoms, 1/2 by 17 by 17 in.
1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 17 by 35-1/2 in.
4-1/2 sq. ft. of 3/8-in. pine for back.
First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can now be laid out and cut or they can be left until the rail tenons are all made and then marked and cut directly from each tenon. The posts as well as the end rails should have grooves cut in them to take the 1/4-in. end panels.
The top board should have the corners cut to fit about the posts. The corners of the back board should be rounded as shown in the drawing.
The end sections of the dresser can be glued together first, care being taken to get the joints square and tight. When these are dry the side rails and drawer slides can be fitted and glued in place. The top board is held in position by means of screws through cleats which are fastened to the inner sides of the rails.
Detail of the Princess Dresser
g should be tacked on the back to protect the glass. The frame swings between two upright posts which are securely fastened to the body of the dresser as shown.