Bibliographic Information of the German National Library:
The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the
German National Biography; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://www.dnb.de.
All rights reserved. © 2021 Bernd H. Eckhardt
This work, including all its parts, is protected by copyright. Any use outside the narrow limits of copyright law without the consent of the author is prohibited and punishable by law. This applies in particular to duplications, translations, microfilming and the storage and processing in electronic systems.
Editor: Cornelia Eckhardt
Contact author/ publisher: Reisen@lnvestors-Office.com
Production and publishing house: BoD - Books on Demand GmbH, Norderstedt
ISBN: 978-3-7543-9199-0
Starting from Paraguay, we have traveled to the countries of South America to understand what politics is doing to the economy, what the cultural conditions are doing, whether the finances are solid and whether investments are possible. Our impressions, which are constantly updated in the form of travel reports, are supported by numerous photos, which should make you want to travel there yourself, to familiarize yourself with the conditions there.
All itineraries can be combined and can also start from the respective national capital (international airport).
Nowadays, everyone can inform themselves about costs and risks on the relevant pages of the airlines, hotels, rental car and bus companies as well as the corresponding comparison portals without any problems and above all on a daily basis. We can therefore dispense with this in the interest of a handy travel companion.
Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information, it may change at any time due to a variety of reasons, such as political or economic developments, special weather conditions, restrictions on travel options, etc. For this reason, every reader should first obtain detailed information when planning a trip on the travel costs and risks. Neither the author, nor the editor, nor the publisher can be held liable for information in this book that no longer corresponds to the current situation. If you discover outdated or incorrect information, we would be pleased to hear from you.
The book is based on an updated and supplemented translation of three volumes published this year in German as paperbacks and e-books.
South America overview map
Table of Contents
Argentina map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Argentina
Argentina's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Argentina
Route ARS 1
Northern Argentina - The historical San Miguel de Tucumán, entrance gate to the Valle de Calchaquies, Tafi de Valle, OpenAir Museum Pachama in Amaicha de Valle, the old Ciudad Sagrada Quilmes, wineries and bodegas in Calafate, the Parque de Cordones on the way to Salta and the museums MAAM and Pajacha, Purmamarca with its Cerro de Siete de Colores, Tilcara with its Purcurá, Uquía with its Señoritas and Ángeles de Arabuceros, the Quebrada de Humahuaca, La Quiaca, gateway to Bolivia.
Route ARS 2
Handicrafts and viticulture in Mendoza and Maipu, Jesuits in Córdoba and Che Guevara in Alta Gracia, the Immaculata Concepción in the grotto of the Argentine Lourdes, Resistencia, the city of sculptures, the provincial capital of Corrientes with its pink Casa de Gobierno, Posadas, once capital of the huge Provincia Grande de las Misiones and Ignacio Mini, the best preserved Jesuit reduction with its evening Espectáculo.
Route ARS 3
Buenos Aires, the international financial, cultural, tango and shopping metropolis with daily demonstrations. Store in the Microcentro in the Galeria Pacifico, marvel at the frescoed dome and listen to opera performances in the Teatro Colon, experience street tango in San Telmo, drink a copa in Puerto Madera and admire the architecture of the Puente de la Mujer, stroll through the Paseo Internacional in La Boca, follow in the footsteps of Evita in chic Recoleta and walk through the Japanese garden in exclusive Palermo.
Route ARS 4
Argentina's center - dinosaurs in Neuquén, Bariloche chocolate and the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, Inca character head in El Bolsón, Parque Temático Valle de los Gigantes in Sarmiento, the largest colony of Magallan penguins outside Antarctica in Punta Tombo, Trelew and its dinosaurs, Gaiman with its Welsh tea culture, the fashionable Puerto Madryn, gateway to the Península Valdéz World Heritage Site with its marine life.
Route ARS 5
Patagonia - El Calafate administrative center of the Parque Nacional de los Glaciares with its growing instead of melting glacier Perito Moreno, El Chaltén with its Miradores de Los Águilas y Los Cóndores and the base camp for fans of the Fitz Roy massif, the former penal colony of Ushuaia in the Tierra del Fuego on the Beagle Channel with the glacier Martial, today door to Antarctica.
Bolivia map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Bolivia
Bolivia's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Bolivia
Route BOB 1
Tupiza and the wine, Salar de Uyuni and the lithium, Potosí and the silver, Sucre capital and fashion city.
Route BOB 2
Cochabamba - lively city with the world's second largest statue of Christ, Cristo de la Concordia.
La Paz - seat of government, witch market, Museo de Coca, music enjoyment in the concert hall of the Orquestra Sinfónica National, gondola rides over the hills of the city in the world's most extensive cable car network.
Copacabana on Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, Cote d'Azur flair a la Bolivia and lake trout, excursions to the legendary islands of Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna, the cradle of Inca culture.
Brazil map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Brazil
Brazil's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Brazil
Route BRL 1
The European part in the south of the country: German beer culture in Blumenau, architecture, gardening and art enjoyment, and the corruption jurisdiction in Curitiba, cachaça and barreado in colonial Morretes.
Route BRL 2 (Part 1 Center/Part 2 Copacabana)
Rio de Janeiro - Magnificent colonial as well as modern buildings and coffeehouse culture in the center, Porto Maravilha with its Etnias and the Museu do Amanhá, Flavelas in the city center, the cradle of Bohemia carioca Santa Teresa and Lapa, a tram ride over the famous Arcos da Lapa and a visit to the colorful Escadería Selaron, feel esperitú carioco on Copacabana, experience the sunset at Piedra de Arpoador, take the cogwheel train up to Cristo and Sugarloaf Mountain and enjoy the fantastic view of Rio, a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Landscape.
Route BRL 3
Itaipú - the singing stone is a gigantic community project between Paraguay and Brazil, even one of the seven wonders of the modern world?
Catarates de Iguaçu - Experience the world natural heritage Catarates de Iguaçu, water masses thundering down, rising spray, rainbows in the water, a look into the devil's throat, coatis as companions.
Chile map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Chile
Chile's climate and the best time to travel
Special events in Chile
Route CLP 1
The relaxed San Pedro de Atacama in the world's driest desert as a base for excursions into a fascinating landscape.
Valle de la Luna, Valle de la Muerte, the Altiplano lakes like the blue lagoons of Miscanti and Miñiques, the villages of Toconao and Socaire, the Laguna Chaxa with its flamingos, the Cordilleras de Sal, the rock paintings in Yerbas Buenas, the Valle de Arcoiris with its colorful mountains and fantastic rock formations, the geysers del Tatio on the highest geyser field in the world.
The historical city of La Serena with its many neo-colonial buildings, the interesting Museo Arqueológico, many pretty squares and its colorful Mercado La Recova.
The mysterious Valle de Elqui, the heart of Chilean pisco production and birthplace of the Nobel Prize winner Gabriela Mistral.
Coquimbo, located on a steep slope, with its harbor besieged by pelicans, seagulls and sea lions, a wide range of fresh fish and seafood, the colonial Barrio Inglés and long beaches.
Route CLP 2
The culturally rich capital Santiago de Chile with its central Plaza de Armas and the impressive Museo Chileno Arte de Precolombino, the Museo Ralli with works of South American artists in the Vitacura district, in the Las Condes district the Pueblito Dominico with its huge Mercado Artesanal and the luxurious Parque Arauco, in the city center, the Barrio Paris-Londres, the Cerro Santa Lucía, the Parque Forestal with the baroque Museo de Bellas Artes, the Mercado Central, famous for its fish restaurants, and the Mapocho train station, built by Eiffel, with its Beaux-Art facade.
The hilly Valparaiso with its colorfully painted facades and the old funicular railroads, the Plaza Sotomayor with the palatial Edificio de la Comandancia Naval, the lively harbor, the phenomenal view from the Cerro Artillería, the Cerro Bellavista, popular with artists and writers, with its Museo a Cielo Abierto and the birthday house of Pablo Neruda.
Viña del Mar, the Ciudad de Jardín, with its Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco Fonck specializing in the history of the Easter Islands, the spacious landscape park Parque Quinta Vergara and Castillo Wulff, located directly on the Pacific Ocean.
Ecuador map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Ecuador
Ecuador's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Ecuador
Route USD 1
Experience Ecuador's largest city Guayaquil - the Parque Bolívar with its free-roaming iguanas in the city center, the prestigious Malecón 2000, the three-kilometer-long secured beach promenade with high entertainment value, the pittoresque old town Las Peñas on the hill Cerro Santa, the tourist-safe area around the Malecón El Salado, the eighthectare Parque Histórico in the Cantón Samborondón.
The relaxed fishing village of Puerto López with its long beach, along the Ruta Spondylus the coastal towns of Olón and the surfer's paradise of Montañita, in the Parque Nacional Machalilla the Isla de la Plata with its fantastic fauna and flora, the Comunidad Ancestral Agua Blanca with its informative museum and the mud lagoon, Los Frailes, one of the most beautiful beaches in Ecuador.
Route USD 2
The eco-city of Loja, capital of music, with its historic Castillo at the city gate, its pretty squares, Calle de Lourdes, the Jipiro amusement park.
The magical village of the centenarians Vilcabamba with its sacred local mountain Mandango.
Cuenca with its old town, declared a World Heritage Site, its approximately 50 churches, the excellent Museo Pumapungo, the informative Museo del Sombrero de Paja Toquilla and its lively market halls.
The colorful Sunday markets of Gualaceo, the gold and silver town of Chordeleg and Sigsig.
The historic site of Ingapirca, second only to Machu Picchu as the most important ceremonial site of the Incas and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The tranquil Alausí, starting point for the ride with the Tren de Diablo over the Devil's Nose on the supposedly most dangerous railroad line in the world to Sibambe.
Route USD 3
Riobamba, the Sultana of the Andes, surrounded by volcanoes, with its excellent Museo de Arte Religioso, its impressive churches and squares.
The touristic Baños with its pretty center, the steaming thermal baths, a generously laid out Parque Zoolológico, the nearby spectacular waterfall El Pailón and the Casa de Árbol with a view of the house volcano Tungurahua.
Puyo, gateway to the Ecuadorian rainforest, with its ethnobotanical Parque Omaere worth seeing.
Latacunga, gateway to the Parque Nacional Cotopaxi and the Quilotoa Loop, with its pretty colonial corners and the large Plaza El Salto.
Saquisilí with its colorful, eclectic Thursday market, one of the most important indigenous markets in the country.
Route USD 4
The capital Quito with its colonial old town with magnificent churches and monasteries, the Cerro El Panecillo with its Virgen de Quito, its cable car going up to the Cruz Loma of the volcano Pichincha, the new town with its museums and the entertainment district La Mariscal.
The Equator Monument Mitad del Mundo, place of the measurement of the equator line, a tourist area with many activities.
Otavalo, with its famous indigenous Saturday market, the vast Parque de los Cóndores with its bird of prey flight shows.
Cotacachi, village of musicians and poets, famous for its leatherwork.
Mindo, city of hummingbirds, orchids, butterflies and artisanal chocolate making, gateway for tours into the cloud forest.
The Guyana States map with route overview
Five highlights to see in the Guyana States
Guyana States climate and the best time to travel
Special events in the Guyana States
Route EUR
French Guiana - a piece of the EU in South America, the tropical multicultural capital Cayenne, a modern spaceport in Kourou, the agricultural Cacao, new home of the Hmong, the border town St. Laurent du Maroni on the Rio Maroni with historical former prison camp.
Route SRD
Suriname - formerly the last colony of the great Dutch colonial empire, the capital Paramaribo (UNESCO World Heritage Site) with its cosmopolitan, ethnically and religiously colorfully mixed inhabitants, its old Fort Zeelandia, its lively market hustle and bustle, and the Sunday songbird competition, the agricultural Nieuw-Amsterdam with its old canals and plantations along the Commewijne River, sea turtles in the Matapica nature reserve, the town of Atjoni as a gateway to the villages of the Maroons and the upper reaches of the Rio Suriname with its pristine river landscape and wildlife, Guyana dolphins in the estuary.
Route GYD
Guyana - rich in rainforest, economically poor on its way to becoming an oil nation, the Caribbean vibrant capital Georgetown with its heritage of Dutch, French and English colonial past.
Colombia map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Colombia
Colombia's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Colombia
Route COP 1
Medellin - former center of the world drug trade, today a modern, green, safe and economically prosperous city, the colonial Centro Cívico with its imposing Botero bronze sculptures, the impressive Palacio de la Cultura and its pretty plazas, Santo Domingo and a cable car ride up the hills to Parque Arvi, Cerro Nutibara with a fantastic panoramic view and the pretty Pueblito Paisa, the entertainment, commercial and financial center El Poblado with its Milla Oro and its magnificent Castillo, the Jardín Botanico with its different vegetation zones, the orchid and butterfly house as well as free-roaming monitor lizards, San Javier with the world's first open-air electric escalator, Complejo Ruta N, an ultramodern center for innovation and commerce.
Guatapé - a picturesque traditional village with its famous zócalas, panoramic view of Embalse de Peñol from the top of Piedra del Peñol.
Route COP 2
Salento - small town flair, local trout, panoramic view from Alto Cerro at sunset, horseback ride to a coffee plantation, four wheel drive tour to the beautiful Valle Cocorca with its huge wax palms.
Popayán - the elegant white colonial city in the south
with its central plaza, the sacred Cerro El Morro de Tulcán and the Pueblito Payanes, colorful market hustle and bustle of the indigenous Guambino in the mountain village of Silvia.
San Augustín - on the traces of the heritage of a vanished cultural people, monumental menhirs, sculpture forest in the Parque Arqueológico, sugar cane plantations and gold seekers along the Rio Magdalena, Cultura San Augustín in Alto de los Idolos.
Cali - the Afro-Colombian influenced old working class city, hotspot of inspiring loud salsa music.
Route COP 3
Cartagena de Indias - Colombia's most beautiful colonial city with morbid charm, the old town as a World Heritage Site, golden art in the Museo del Oro, the lively Plaza Santa Domingo with Boteros Gorda Gertrudis, Plaza San Pedro Claver with its sculptures, Plaza de Los Coches with its Portal de los Dulces, arts and crafts in the old dungeons Las Bovédas, Sunset on the old fortifications, India Catalina and the mighty Fortaleza San Felipe de Barajas, evening scene in the Plaza de la Trinidad in Getsémani, the green lung of the city, the Parque Centenario, luxury hotels, casinos and beach life in the modern district of Bocagrande, excursion to the National Park Islas del Rosario in the Caribbean Sea.
Route COP 4
Bogotá - the high, culturally rich capital of Colombia with its historic center La Candelería, a sea of doves on the central Plaza Bolivar, changing of the guard in front of the Palacio Nariño, gold treasures in the unique Museo del Oro at the Parque de Santander, Emeralds in the Museo International de la Esmeralda, handicrafts in the colorful Mercado Artesanal, paintings and sculptures in the Museo Botero, police and drug history in the interesting Museo Histórico Nacional de la Policía, evening meeting place of the younger generation the Plazoleta de Chorro de Quevedo.
Zipaquirá - the mining town with its huge imposing underground salt cathedral.
Villa de Leyva - tranquil colonial and market town with probably the largest Plaza Mayor in South America.
Raquira - the pottery town with its life-size clay figures.
Paraguay map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Paraguay
Paraguay's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Paraguay
Route PYG 1
History. European immigrants in Paraguay, from Asunción to Colonia Independencia, to Villarrica, and Ciudad del Este.
Route PYG 2
Yerba Mate and Bella Vista, Hohenau and the Rutas Jesuíticas, Carnival and Encarnación, Textile Industry and Pilar.
Route PYG 3
Asunción - In the heart of South America.
Route PYG 4
Around Asunción.
Route PYG 5
Chaco - the Pearl of the North Concepción, crocodiles, tapirs, monkeys and turtles cross the Trans-Chaco Route, the Mennonite colony of Fernheim and the main town of Filadelfia, the Menno colony in Loma Plata.
Peru map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Peru
Peru's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Peru
Route PEN 1
Puno, starting point to the Islas Uros, the incomparable floating reed islands in Lake Titicaca.
Cusco, the archaeological capital of South America, World Heritage Site with its remains from the glorious times of the Inca Empire and the magnificent palaces and churches from colonial times around the Plaza de Armas, the famous twelve-cornered stone in Calle Hatunrumiyoc, the Museo de Arte Precolombino in Plazoleta Nazarenas, the Museo de Coca and the Museo de Mendívil in Plaza San Blas, the lively Mercado San Pedro in Plazoleta San Pedro.
Ollantaytambo in the Valle Sagrado with its proud Inca fortress and the village layout that has been preserved since Inca times and its railroad connection to Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu, the legendary well-preserved ancient Inca city situated high up in the middle of the rainforest, at its feet Machu Picchu Pueblo with its train station, a large Mercado Artesanal, a pretty church and lots of gastronomy and hotellery.
Pisac in the Valle Sagrado with its Inca ruins, the daily handicraft market, the Sunday indigenous market and a church service in Quechua.
Route PEN 2
The capital Lima with its Centro Histórico declared as World Heritage Site around the Plaza de Armas, the Barrio Chino, the pretty neighborhood of Miraflores with its cliff, the green coastal walk, the Larco Mar shopping complex built into the rock and the Huaca Pucllana, an old clay pyramid from the Lime culture, the colonial district of Barranco with its Puente de los Suspiros and its beaches, the Parque de la Reserva with its Circuito Mágico del Agua.
Uruguay map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Uruguay
Uruguay's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Uruguay
Route UYU 1
Nostalgia in Colonia de Sacramento, ice cream in Mercedes, meat extract in Fray Bentos, German organ in Paysandú, Termas de Dayman, tango in Valle Eden, Fiesta de la Pátria de Gaucho in Tacurembó, Valle de Lunarejo as you continue through Gaucholand to Melo, history in Treinta y Tres, shopping in the double border town of Chuy/Chui.
Route UYU 2
Montevideo, the lively yet tranquil capital - history, architecture, culture, relaxed people and lots of tango included.
Route UYU 3
Hippie feeling in Punta del Diablo, the fishing village and surfer's paradise La Paloma, the sea lion colony of Cap Polonio, sculpture park near Manantiales, the sophisticated Punta del Este, art in Punta Ballena.
Venezuela map with route overview
Five highlights to see in Venezuela
Venezuela's climate and best time to travel
Special events in Venezuela
Route VES 1
Historical and current political situation, Caracas, Parque Nacional Henri Pittier with Puerto Colombia, Parque Nacional Médanos with Coro, Mérida, Los Ulanos, Catatumbo.
Route VES 2
Isla Margarita, Ciudad Bolívar, Canaima, Salto Ángel.
Author and Editor
Salta (Route ARS 1), called La Linda, with a consistently pleasant climate and the MAAM and Pajacha museums.
Ignacio Mini (Route ARS 2), the best preserved Jesuit reduction with its evening Espectáculo de Imagen y Sonido.
Buenos Aires (Route ARS 3): In the cosmopolitan metropolis live in every respect stunning people. Elegance next to patchwork. Gourmet restaurants next to Chinese buffets that price the selected food by weight. Classic cafes next to takeaway chaines. Shopping temples next to backyard stores. Sensual tango next to exciting soccer. European-style Belle Epoque streets next to seedy neighborhoods and ghettos. A unique city, seductive and frustrating.
Punta Tombo (Route ARS 4), the largest colony of Magallan penguins outside Antarctica, and fashionable Puerto Madryn, gateway to the Península Valdéz World Heritage Site with its marine life.
Perito Moreno Glacier (Route ARS 5): The probably most dynamic glacier of the earth advances well and gladly also two meters in one day. The subsequent break-off, the calving, is an outstanding spectacle. The glacier is easily accessible via a large network of footbridges and paths. There you stand in the midst of numerous other observers and wait until the next house-sized chunk splits off, sometimes thundering and fast, sometimes slow and crunching into the water, colliding with other floes and creating huge waves. A spektakel.
Argentina's north-south extension of almost 3,500 kilometers results in several climate zones. In the southern hemisphere it is summer when it is winter in the northern hemisphere and winter when it is summer in the northern hemisphere.
The Argentine summer, from December to February, is probably the best time to travel to Patagonia (Route ARS 5) and for beach vacations.
Autumn and spring, i.e. March to May and September to November, are climatically ideal for the center of the country, i.e. for Mendoza and Route ARS 2, for Buenos Aires (Route ARS 3) and also for Route ARS 4.
The Argentine winter, from June to August, can be spent in the north (Route ARS 1), it is the ski season and the beaches remain deserted.
At the end of January the most famous and biggest Argentine folklore festival takes place in Cosquín near Cordoba.
Holy Week is celebrated fervently, as everywhere else in South America. And in March, the five-day Harvest Festival in Mendoza features fireworks, folklore and a royal coronation.
In August, the world's best tango dancer is chosen in Buenos Aires during the two-week Festival y Mundial de Balle.
And in December, Buenos Aires hosts the International Jazz Festival.
Route ARS 1:
Northern Argentina -
San Miguel de Tucumán,
Valle de Tafi, Amaicha de Valle,
Quilmes,
Calafate,
Salta,
Tilcara,
Uquía,
Humahuaca,
La Quiaca
Let's start with San Miguel de Tucumán, which is almost 800 kilometers by air or 1,100 kilometers by car from Asunción. The city can be reached by car in about 14 hours via the RN11 and RN89. As everywhere in South America, there are also frequent buses. Flights are hardly shorter due to a stopover of about nine hours plus arrival and departure to the airport and waiting time at the airport. We stay directly at the Plaza Independencia with the cathedral, the Casa de Gobierno and other colonial buildings, which look fantastic when illuminated at night In the center of the square is a large park.
The tourist information office provides us with a good map and tips. The Casa de Gobierno offers a guided tour on request In front of the main entrance, heavily armed police or militia have been deployed, because once again demonstrators have gathered in front of the building with demands for more work and financial support. This is a typical theme in Argentina, which can only be explained by a mentality that has been learned over generations. There is little work, as companies do not make sufficient profits despite numerous tax and social security avoidance measures. It does not seem worthwhile to set up a company. And if one has nevertheless created a smaller or mediumsize company, then this one counts already on the bankruptcy in approximately five years, since at the latest then it becomes clear that the taxes and the social security contributions for the employees were not paid correctly. A follow-up company under a similar name is then already in the starting blocks and if you yourself are banned from working for a while because of the bankruptcy, the new company will belong to a family member. It is also not helpful for a company foundation that the wages are high. But without high wages, employees would rather be pampered by the state in the social security system. We hear the same stories over and over again: Of families who have been a burden on the social security system for several generations, and who have been unable to make a fresh start even under the current economic reforms. Companies whose production is often not in line with the global market due to a lack of employee training and bureaucratic organization, and is therefore poor in terms of quality or too expensive due to a lack of machinery and excessively high wages. The sluggishness that has set in under the socially romantic regime and has already led to state bankruptcy cannot be stopped.
Nor can the level of education be raised quickly. If teachers in schools have been told for years that they are bad, if there are high failure and dropout rates, then it should not come as a surprise that half illiterate students have also received a certificate of completion. Performance was simply not required anywhere. The state then tried to protect the domestic economy with high import duties and capital controls. Likewise, high export duties, for example on agricultural products, led to Argentine cattle dying in the Pampa, no longer being slaughtered, their meat being too expensive on the world market. State failure all along the line. But of course there are big and small profiteers from this longstanding social experiment.
The Kirchner clan is rich. Its followers may not live very well, but they live comfortably enough at the expense of the state. The percentage of high-income citizens is also relatively high. And so the country is divided between socialist supporters of Kirchner and economically oriented conservatives. In the process, cracks run through families. One does not understand the other, cannot and will not understand him. A middle class, as represented by a social market economy, is unlikely to emerge in Argentina in the next few years. Yet the country is so beautiful, so rich in raw materials and was one of the most prosperous in the world in the 1920s. This is stored in the collective memory of the Argentineans and can be seen everywhere.
The cathedral of Tucumán is impressive, bright and relatively simple. The more typical Franciscan church, on the other hand, leaves a somber impression compared to this German-Hamburg elegance.
Next to this church stands an old university building. We are not allowed to look into the inner courtyard. Only those who can present and use a scanner-readable university card can pass through the barrier. Although the security personnel are reluctant to turn us away, the security and protection of the university staff and students come first.
Behind their hands, they say that without the security services, the number of books in the library would have been significantly reduced; so it's not about the safety of the people there, but about the safety of the institution.
In the pedestrian zone, an old lady, more like an old mother with a bent back, but an institution in Tucumán, stands and sells empanadas from her basket year after year, or rather decade after decade. Nowadays, the supplies are delivered by the granddaughter or great-granddaughter. Customers line up. One hand hands out the empanada with a napkin, the other takes the worn-out banknotes. We don't worry about hygiene. The empanadas taste good.
Music is playing in another square and we listen for a while before visiting the Museo de la Independencia. In this house, on July 9, 1816, the Congress proclaimed the independence of the United Provinces of the Rio de la Plata (Provincias Unidas del Rio de la Plata), the forerunner of today's Argentina and the successor of the Spanish Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata, and on July 21, 1816, it was officially and legally proclaimed by the Congress members. The original house was built in 1760 by the Bazán family and later became the property of the government In 1941, the house was declared a National Historic Monument and since 1943 it has been a museum. Some things have been renovated over time, and the room where the Congress proclaimed independence and signed the documents has been preserved in its original state. The paintings of the signatories hang on the walls. In addition, the history of the Rio de la Plata Viceroyalty and the political upheavals and emancipation efforts that ultimately led to the Declaration of Independence are explained in the other rooms. We will return here in the evening after dark, because we do not want to miss the evening spectacle. In the courtyard and the inner courtyards of the building, historical events are re-enacted. They are projected on the walls and accompanied by music. Even if we did not understand every word, it was impressive. Many families with children were there, fascinated by the events. The national feeling was appealed to and the people were inspired for their country. They are also proud. With good reason with regard to the previous century, and yet this sense of value is probably the main obstacle that prevents them from realistically seeing the changed world conditions and the value of their own work.
On our way back to the hotel, the park is full of people. Radio and television are represented. Several clergy of the cathedral offer talks. We count several benches or pairs of chairs where the faithful and the priests meet outside the church for a conversation without constraint, almost in a friendly manner. The waiting line of people of all ages is long, extending into the late evening.
The colonial building that houses the Museo Folclórico Provincial General Manuel Belgrano has been declared a municipal, regional and national cultural asset. The exhibits (since 1943) include mainly exhibits of local and regional folklore, information on rites of indigenous cultures, musical instruments and much more.
One room is dedicated exclusively to Mercedes Sosa, the city's most famous daughter. Mercedes Sosa (born in Tucuman on July 9, 1935, died in Buenos Aires on October 4, 2009) belonged to the Nuevos Cancioneros, folk singers of a new, political style of folklore. Their lyrics were socially critical and political in content, against war, dictatorship and for the rights of the indigenous population and the peasants. Sosa's first long-playing record, La voz de la Zafra (Voice of the Sugar Cane Harvest), was released in 1962 (exclusively Argentine folk). In 1967 she was already giving concerts all over the world (e.g. in Spain, Italy, Russia, Poland, USA). In her youth she supported Juan Perón, after the military coup she remained in Argentina under repressive measures, and later fled into exile in Madrid. After Argentina had a civilian government again, she returned in 1982 for a concert in Buenos Aires, and then returned completely in 1983. After her death, national mourning was declared. Her music and songs have been repeatedly awarded a Grammy Latino. She has sung and produced songs with many other international stars such as Joan Baez, Andrea Bocelli, Nana Mouskouri, Luciano Pavarotti, Shakira, Sting, Konstantin Wecker.
On the way to the Casa del Obispo, we stroll through the Parque de 9. Julio, Past an open-air church. A few people are taking a siesta in the shade on the waterfront The Casa del Obispo, or Museo de la Industria Azucarera Obispo José Colombres, was inaugurated in 1916 and declared a Monumento Histórico Nacional in 1941. The house is a typical example of colonial architecture from the end of the 18th century. Obispo José Colombres was one of the deputies who signed the Declaration of Independence in 1816. In 1821, at his request, the first wooden sugar mill went into operation in Tucumán. Sugar extraction became a flourishing industry and soon 26 mills were in operation in the surrounding area. Later, the wooden machines were replaced by steam-powered ones. In the museum and on its premises, the regional history of the sugar industry is presented, starting from the successful early years (jobs, new railroad connections), which gave impetus to the economy, up to the workers' revolts, when the world market price of sugar dropped drastically. In addition, the patrons had introduced an internal currency (19th century to the first quarter of the 20th century) with which the workers were paid. These coins had no value in the normal market They were only accepted in the stores of the merchants. There was great dependence on the patrons, who were exclusively responsible for setting the prices. Dissatisfaction on the part of the workers was foreseeable.
Ultimately, all of Argentina is in a similar situation today; no one else wants the country's currency, and buying and selling rates in neighboring countries differ dramatically. An inflation rate of 50% means that Argentines are spending their earned money as quickly as possible, exchanging it for material assets or pleasures such as eating out or traveling.
On recommendation, we stop at the restaurant El Portal in the evening. Typical regional cuisine with a large selection of empanadas and locro, the hearty corn stew, awaits us. Locro was a typical Andean dish even before the Spanish conquest The name is derived from the Quechua word ruqru. Besides corn, meat (mostly beef, sometimes dried meat or chorizo), locro also contains vegetables. Our dish was delicious, the Vino de la Mesa worth drinking. A nice evening, the restaurant later well attended, even if we were the first guests.
In our large hotel, a business hotel, the Internet did not work for three full days. The connection to the hotel was perfect, but the connection to the provider was interrupted. Despite intensive efforts on the part of the staff, the repair was a long time coming. This is a problem that affects not only us, but above all the companies. Expansion of fast fiber-optic lines, often not desired by the citizens, refusal to accept the future and also lack of money. Businesses now only hope for fast Internet via satellite. Elon Musk, the Tesla boss with his SpaceX rockets and refrigeratorsized satellites, 2,000 of which have already been sent into orbit in 2020, is working on this; the money will then flow to the USA and not remain in the country.
We leave the city and drive further into the country in the direction of Valle de Tafi. One could also say that we are entering Indian country, because from now on we will encounter them in the form of sculptures, motifs or men in almost every place, the first time in Famaillá, where we make a photo stop.
The next stop is longer than expected, because we run into a roadblock. A group of workers, maybe 20 in number, mainly younger people, are on strike and have blocked the road with branches. There are no transpairs. At first, we can't find out what it's all about Some drivers call the police. Nothing happens. After a long time, a police car drives by and just keeps going. An ambulance is allowed to pass, and every now and then the strikers clear away the branches and allow ten vehicles to pass. It is astonishing to us how calmly and without grumbling most drivers accept the unwanted waiting time. Meanwhile, our mood has sunk. In general, two or more people sit in the waiting cars. Why doesn't one driver of each of the 50 to 100 waiting cars get out and peacefully walk with the other passengers to the strikers and clear the road? The right to strike, yes, but against the employer and not by making the general public liable. Later we learn that it was about tax increases in the wood processing industry, which were probably passed on to the workers. There are about five to ten strikes a day in Buenos Aires for various reasons, but that's another story.
Finally, we are among the next vehicles that can pass and pick up speed. The good mood comes back slowly and we voluntarily stop at the Monument del Indio, in a curve on the Ruta 307 at an altitude of 1,100 meters. The six meter high sculpture stands on a ten meter high pedestal, in which an allegory Hymn to the Sun is carved. The monument is also known as El Chasqui. The word is Quechua and means messenger, in reference to the fast messengers of the Inca Empire who had to travel to Tucuman, one of the outermost corners of the Inca Empire. The famous sculptor Enrique Prat Gay from Tucumán created the figure in 1943. The place is a popular stop with a restaurant, a kiosk, and a commemorative stand. We meet again all those who had to suffer waiting with us in the strike jam earlier.
In El Mollar we visit the Parque de los Menhires. The word menhir comes from Celtic and means long stone made by human hand. Before being grouped in the Reserva Arqueológica Menhires del Valle de Tafi, the menhirs were scattered throughout the valley. They are considered to belong to the Tafi culture and to have been important in the fertility cult The park is open, but empty of people. Only a few dogs are dozing in the midday heat One of them accompanies us on our walk. Some of the menhirs are already very weathered, while on others the carved figures and symbols are still very well recognizable.
Passing the reservoir La Angostura we drive up to Tafi. Tafi is derived from the Indian word tak-tikllaktaab, meaning pueblo de entrada espléndida, or village of the magnificent entrance. The Valle de Tafi is the gateway to the Valles de Calchaquies. In the past, one of the main routes across the Andes passed through these valleys. The people of the Tafi culture lived from agriculture and cattle breeding.
Today, many city dwellers have their vacation villa in this beautyful valley. We rent one. The place itself is small, a few hotels, cabañas, restaurants, a few stores and souvenir stores. Above all, local specialties like llama salami, local handmade cheeses and Vino de Altura are offered. Our dinner is simple, fresh bread, strong cheese, llama salami with anise and fennel, accompanied by a red wine of the Malbec grape grown at high altitude.
With the owners of the shop, a young couple from Buenos Aires, she is an English teacher, we talk for a long time about the situation in Argentina, their plans in the village of Tafi and their wishes for the future, to emigrate or to return to Buenos Aires with money in their pockets. They want to achieve something, to be part of a new movement.
The next morning, we set off in the direction of Amaicha de Valle. The road winds up the mountain in serpentines passes Lamas, prewhite donkeys, passes impressive candelabra cacti, the Cordones, abandoned huts, old stone baking ovens.
Amaicha de Valle has about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are indigenous. Here, directly on the main street, stands the unique Museo Pachamama. It is a private museum on 10,000 square meters with four exhibition rooms and an outdoor area, which is laid out like a forest, everything made with stones from the region. The sculptures and the murals in the courtyard come from the Indian mythology of the people of this region (e.g. Diaguitas, Quilmes, Calchaquies) and are related to the mother Earth, Pachamama, the father Sun, Inti, and the mother Moon, Quilla. The architect of this project is the indigenous artist, sculptor and painter Héctor Cruz. He comes from a simple background and is ultimately self-taught He designed the entire project without an architect and created the artistic elements himself. The project took 30 years to complete. 100 workers from Amaicha and Quilmes - jobs for the region - helped to create the stone. The idea of the project was to give back to the indigenous people a part of their identity. From their point of view and from the point of view of the artist, the indigenous population lost not only their land but also their religion and their dignity as human beings with the conquest by the Spanish. The museum should contribute to the awareness that we exist, we are valuable, our culture is preserved. We can be proud of it
The uniqueness and artistic design of the museum attracts many tourists, through which this barren region has ultimately benefited and continues to develop.
In the direction of Cafayate, a gravel road about three kilometers long leaves Ruta 40 on the left and leads to the ruins of Quilmes, to the Ciudad Sagrada de los Quilmes, the holy city of the Quilmes. In the accompanying museum, a video tells about the history of Quilmes.
From the tenth century, this place was inhabited. The location was strategically ideal, situated on a mountain slope. From the top it was possible to overlook the entire valley. The population lived in harmony with nature.
Between 1480 and 1536, the region was under Inca rule. Only after many decades of successful resistance were the Quilmes defeated in 1667 by the Spanish, who slaughtered them. About 5,000 Indians lived here at that time. Only a few managed to escape. The survivors were taken in a 1,200 kilometer trek to Quilmes, a town near Buenos Aires. Those who survived were dewormed and forced to do forced labor. Quilmes is also the seat of the old-established Quilmes brewery, and Quilmes beer is popular not only in Argentina.
The ruins were restored in 1978. A circular route leads through the site, which lies at an altitude of 1,700 meters. The remains of old fortifications can be seen, along with caves and a beautiful view of the valley.
Cafayate, with its many wineries and bodegas, is not far away. The area is considered, along with Mendoza, to be the best wine-growing region in Argentina. It is ideal with its climate at an altitude of 1,700 meters, sunny days and cool nights, the sandy, rather stony soil with good drainage and clean Andean meltwater. Due to the arid conditions, the grapes form a firmer skin and fewer seeds, but a more intense aroma. The wine we really want to try is the white wine Torrontés.
On Easter weekend there is a rush of visitors. Not only the central square, Plaza San Martin, is full of people. On Good Friday, after dark, a procession takes place. The people, many of them of indigenous origin, follow singing with candles in their hands. The music and the choir are broadcasted over loudspeakers that are everywhere in the village.
In the ice cream parlor we taste Malbec and Torrontés ice cream and then the real Torrontés. It smells intensely fruity, tastes fruity, but it dissipates extremely quickly and a residue of acidity remains. Either you like it or you don't. We did not agree.
The next day we visited different wineries.
First, Bodega Piattelli (Piattelli Vineyards): In 2002, John Malinsky, a native of the northern United States, came to Argentina, to Mendoza, for the first time. Here he bought his first winery; first came the purchase of 65 hectares in Cafayate, later 100 hectares of land in Animaná. He invested a total of twelve million dollars. The winery, built in Tuscan and Californian style, is located in a beautiful park-like area of 5,500 square meters, where the production facilities are located, as well as the tasting rooms and an elegant restaurant that can accommodate large groups of visitors. The winery combines modern technology, steel storage tanks with a capacity of 960,000 liters, with traditional viticulture. The grapes are picked by hand by 30 employees. The red varieties Malbec, Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon are cultivated, as well as the white grape Torrontés. Wines from this bodega have won several awards.
The management is professional, with trained English-speaking staff, with smart marketing ideas such as Malbec or Torrentés perfume. And every year there is a wine festival Sonidos del Vino.
We continue to the Bodega San Pedro de Yacochuya. Through a cactus-lined driveway we reach this family-owned bodega with a beautiful view of the valley. The Etcharts have been involved in wine growing on their mother's side since 1850. Arnoldo Benito Etchart acquired a finca and bodega in the middle of the 20th century. His son Arnold developed the Etchart brand. In 1988, he convinced the French oenologist Michael Rolland to develop the red wine of Bodega Etchart. It was the beginning of a long collaboration. In 1990, their wines won their first awards. In 1996 Bodega Etchart was sold to Pernod Ricard, not without already having a new bodega in planning.
Construction began in 1998 and the first harvest was in February 1999. In 2001, the brothers Arnold and Marcus decided to focus primarily on exporting their wines. 16 hectares of vineyards were available, nine for Malbec, four for Cabernet Sauvignon, one for Tannat and two for Torrontés. Their plant of the latest and most modern technology was designed for 90,000 liters. In conversation, Marcus Etchart tells us that the nearby vineyards are harvested by hand; only the more distant ones are harvested by machine to ensure fast transport to the bodega without too much loss of juice from the grapes. The somewhat higher alcohol content of the local wines compared to European wines is by no means a disadvantage. The customers love it and the winemakers drink their wine almost like water.
It is also about the economic difficulties that Argentine winegrowers had. There was simply a lack of money, and many gave up and sold to foreign buyers. In the reception and exhibition room, we admire the old issue of a Russian magazine on display, which praises the winery and its wines. The charts offer, among others, the following wines: San Pedro de Yacochuya Malbec (86% Malbec, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon), San Pedro de Yacochuya Cabernet (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec), Torrontés (100% Torrontés).
If you want to visit all the wineries and taste all the wines, it is better not to use your car or to limit yourself to the wineries located directly in Cafayate. We drive to our hotel, which is not called Tierra de Vinos for nothing, leave the car and set off on foot.
The Nanni winery (family-owned since 1897) is packed. We are put off until a later tasting, because the glasses have run out The staff already seemed a little annoyed. The tannat wine is said to be excellent. Our patience is tested too much and we trust the reputation and buy a bottle without tasting in advance.
Nanni offers a Linea joven with Torrontés, Rosato, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat and Torrontés Tardio, a Linea Reserva with Malbec, Tannat, Cabernet Malbec and Bonardo and a Linea Gran Reserve with Arcanvs. This winery also produces excellent award-winning wines.
Our last selected stop is the Bodega El Transito. Here we taste an excellent Malbec Tardio, a late harvest, extremely aromatic in taste and with a blackberry and cherry flavor. The wines marketed under the name of Pietro Marini are Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Malbec, Malbec Rosada, Malbec Cabernet, Malbec Tannat, Malbec Tardio Torrontés and Pedro Moises.
The great-grandfather of the current owner, Pietro from Rosciolo in Italy, emigrated to Cafayate at the end of the 19th century, bringing with him nothing more than his passion for and knowledge of viticulture. In Cafayate he made his dreams come true.
His sons Benjamin Andrés and Pedro Moises followed in his footsteps and in 1942 the Bodega El Transito was founded.
The father of the current owner was born here. In 1952, the winery moved to modern premises. In 2004, the production was converted to the most modern technology, while preserving the traditional viticulture. In the entrance and tasting room are exhibited old photos of Cafayate, the family, an original plan of the old bodega, also called Bodega Encantada, and paintings by local artists. The old bodega is now a museum.
From Cafayate, the RN 68 runs in the direction of Salta through the Quebrada de Cafayate or the Quebrada de las Conchas with its striking sandstone formations. The most beautiful formations are signposted, Los Castilos (the Castles), El Obelisco, El Fraile (the Father), El Sapo (the Toad), El Anfiteatro, La Garganta del Diabolo (the Devil's Mouth). Along the route there is also a town called Alemania.