First published in 1990 by Notabene, Copenhagen DK

Danish edition 2008: Nimbus – vedligeholdelse by Motorploven, Hadsten DK

A shortened English edition 2012 was published in 2012 by Books on Demand GmbH,

København, Danmark

This new size edition is published in 2018

Cover photo: Finn Nielsen

Print: Books on Demand GmbH, Norderstedt, Germany

ISBN: 9 788 743 019 213

© Knud Jørgensen and Books on Demand GmbH

All rights reserved. With exception of quoting brief passages for the purpose of review, no part of this publication may be recorded, reproduced or transmitted by any means, including photocopying without permission of the author (exceptions are given in the book).

FOREWORD to the English edition 2018

The first edition of ´NIMBUS – vedligeholdelse’ (NIMBUS - Maintenance) was published in spring 1990 and at that time titled: ´NIMBUS - og kunsten at vedligeholde den´. (NIMBUS: The Art of Maintenance).

A second Danish edition was published in 2008, and many have asked for an English edition, hence the publication of this edition in 2012. This new size edition was published 2018

There were 4,500 Nimbus-C motorcycles registered in Denmark in spring 2015. If we take account of the 1,000 in use abroad, almost half of the total production of 12,715 motorcycles survive to this day. All require maintenance and repair, and from time to time renovation and restoration. This book is about the first three of these subjects, and together with ´Nimbus -Technical Development’, it may also be useful in restoration. The content of this book is by large limited to those operations which a skilled owner can do or can have done. Many repairs nowadays have to be left to a professional workshop, as mistakes can become very expensive and irreplaceable original parts may be damaged.

Many thanks to Ben Geutskens and to Charles Duffill for their work on the English edition. Errors or shortcomings remain the author’s responsibility.

Højbjerg, October 2018

Knud Jørgensen

Introduction

This book is intended as a guide to the maintenance and repair of Nimbus type C motorcycles built between 1935 and 1959. The first Nimbus-C series, built during 1934 and 1935 and with serial numbers 1301-1551, differ somewhat from later models. See Andersen, J. B. (1996): ´Nimbus model C 1934´. An English translation of this book is available on www.geutskens.eu

The 1934 rear wheel to which this book refers was in fact fitted up to 1937, and the 1934-2 carburettor model was used up to 1938.

The earlier Nimbus type A/B 1918-1928, widely but unofficially known as the ´Kakkelovnsrør´ or ’Stovepipe’, is described in Andersen og Jørgensen (2007). ´Nimbus 1918-28 “Kakkelovnsrøret”

The many changes to Nimbus-C between 1934 and 1959 are described in Jørgensen, K. (2016): ´Nimbus – Technical Development 1934 - 1959´, This book explains the ‘early’ versus the ‘later’ design, the ‘low’ telescopic fork as opposed to the ‘high’ version, etc.

In the description of the various dismantling, repair and reassembly procedures, spare part numbers are given in brackets. The spare parts catalogue issued by A/S Fisker & Nielsen in 1951 and corrected in 1958: (´Værkstedshåndbog – originale reservedele´) has been reprinted many times by Denmark’s Nimbus Touring Club (DNT) and others.

Every illustrated part in the catalogue is numbered. This part number will be found in the list on the opposite page. An underscored illustration number indicates that the numbers of any earlier versions of the part are also listed. The serial numbers applicable to different versions are given in the column to the left of the part numbers.

Reference is also made to Weidinger, S. (2007): Nimbus – Ord-bog – Dictionary - Wörterbuch.

Contents

  • Foreword
    • Introduction
  • Specifications
  • Workshop practice
    • torque settings
  • Engine
    • Removal
    • Installation
    • Installed engine work
    • Dismantling
    • Assembling major components
    • Final assembly
    • Engine checklists
    • Cylinder block
    • Cylinder head
    • Crankshaft
    • Pistons
    • Camshaft
    • Connecting rods
    • Clutch
  • Electrics
    • Battery
    • Dynamo maintenance repair and testing
    • Voltage regulator
    • Ignition coil and distributor
    • Combination switch
    • -Ammeter and charge warning light
    • Horn and horn button
    • Brake light switch
    • Lighting equipment
    • Headlight
    • Tail light
    • Sidecar lights
    • Wiring
    • Fuses
    • Instrument lighting
  • Gearbox
    • Maintenance
    • Repair
  • Drive shaft
  • Carburettor
    • Maintenance
    • Dismantling and cleaning
    • Adjustment
      • carburettor 1934-1
      • carburettor 1934-2
      • carburettor 1938
      • carburettor 1950
      • carburettor 1951
      • carburettor 1951-2
      • carburettor 1953
  • Wheels
    • Hubs
    • Spokes
    • Nipples
    • Rims
    • Checking wheel truth
    • Wheel-building and ‘trueing’
    • Emergency repair
    • Tyre pressures
    • Front wheel
    • Fitting front wheel
    • Dismantling
    • Assembling
    • Speedometer gearbox
    • Rear wheel
    • Removing
    • Dismantling
    • Initial assembly and adjustment
    • Final drive pinion
    • Crown wheel and pinion adjustment
  • Brakes
    • 150mm brakes
    • 180mm brakes
    • Maintenance and repair.
    • Adjusting the brakes
    • front brake
    • rear brake
    • sidecar brake
  • Frame
    • Frame straightening
    • Frame modifications
    • Steering lock
    • Knee pads
    • Footrests
    • Tool box
    • Centre stand
  • Petrol tank
    • Removing
    • Fitting
    • Repairing
  • Telescopic forks
    • Removing the complete fork assembly
    • Fitting the forks
    • Preparation, assembly and fitting
    • Dismantling the forks
    • Assembling the forks - Fork repair
  • Handlebar
  • Saddle and pillion seat
    • -Coil-sprung saddle
    • Rubber suspended saddle
    • -Coil-sprung pillion seat
    • -Rubber-suspended pillion seat
  • Gear change mechanism
    • Removing and fitting
    • Dismantling and assembling
    • Repairing
    • Adjusting
  • Speedometer
    • Removing and fitting
    • Dismantling
    • Maintenance and repair
  • Valve enclosure
  • Sidecars
    • Sidecar types
    • Maintenance and repair
    • Adjusting the brake
  • Adjustments
    • Rear wheel bearings
    • Brakes
    • Crown wheel and pinion (final drive gears)
    • Carburettor
    • Valve clearances
    • Contact breaker
    • Ignition timing
    • Valve timing
    • Camshaft and dynamo bevel gears
    • Helical cut bevel gears
    • Tyre pressures
    • Torque settings
    • Lubrication
    • Paint Colours

Specifications for Nimbus-C

Number of cylinders: 4 in line
Bore: 60mm (available oversize’s: 60.6mm, 61.2mm or 61.8mm)
Stroke: 66mm
Cubic capacity: 746 cm3(761 cm3, 776 cm3or 792 cm3). Figures in brackets are for 1st, 2nd and 3rd oversize.
Compression ratio: 5.7:1 (domed pistons) or 5.4:1 (flat-top pistons)
Power output: 22 bhp / 16.2 kw @ 4500 rpm. (5.7:1 compression) 18 bhp / 13.2 kw @ 4500 rpm. (5.4:1 compression)
Max. speed: Solo: 120 km/h.; with sidecar: 95 km/h.
Cruising speed: Solo: 90 km/h.; with sidecar: 75 km/h.
Gear ratios: 1st: 2.43:1, 2nd: 1.53:1 (or 1.57:1), 3rd: 1.00:1 (or 1.04:1)
Final drive ratio: Sidecar gearing: 4.92:1 (59/12) Solo vehicle: 4.07: 1 (57/14) or 4.00 (56/14)
Brakes: 150mm or 180 mm drums, front and rear
Wheel base: 1301 – 7500: 1410mm 7501 – 14015: 1435mm
Rake: 65 °
Trail:
Overall lenght:
Overall width:
Overall height:
Frames1301 – 7500
60mm
2160mm
780mm
1050mm
Frames 7501 – 14015
65mm
2200mm
720mm
1100mm
Seat height: 710mm
Dry weight: 185kg (with passenger seat)
Petrol tank: 12,5 1itre, of which approximately 1 litre reserve
Tyres: 3.50” x 19” (possible front wheel »Sport« 3,25” x 19”)
Wheel base: 1301-7500: 1410mm; 7501-14 015: 1435mm
Front fork offset: 1301-7500: 60mm; 7501-14 015: 65mm
Valve clearance:
Contact breaker
Inlet: 0.3 mm, exhaust: 0.7 mm (cold engine)
gap setting: 0.7mm
Plug gap setting: 0.7mm
Ignition sequence: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Ignition timing: 1650 rpm: 37° before top dead centre (TDC)
Valve timing: Inlet valve
opens: 7° before TDC
closes: 39° after bottom dead centre (BDC)
Exhaust valve
opens: 42° before BDC
closes: 4° after TDC
Battery: 6 V/ 12 Ah
Dynamo: 8V/70W
Lighting: Low beam / high beam: 35/35 W Parking light: 4 W (possible 5 W) Tail light and licence plate light: 5 W Brake light: 15W Instrument light: 1,2W Ignition/charge warning light (Bosch): 4W Ignition/charge warning light (lighting switch): 2W

Workshop practice

  • Give a task all the time it needs.
  • Arrange good lighting.
  • Have pencil and paper within reach.
  • Have plenty of clean rags available.
  • Use service tools where necessary and quality tools in all other cases.

Fasteners and locking methods:

Thread types

All threads on the Nimbus-C are right hand, with the exception of that on the speedometer drive worm (7572 or 8361), which is a left-hand thread. With few exceptions, threads are standard metric or metric fine.

Fasteners

Bolts, screws, washers and nuts for Nimbus-C are standard engineering hardware items. Their precise sizes can generally be read from the spare parts list. For example: Plan 9C in the spare parts list calls for: 7651 Screw 6 – 0,75 x 13mm, that is, an M6 screw with an under- head length of 13mm and a thread pitch of 0.75mm (metric fine).

Bolts

On the Nimbus-C all bolts are hexagon head, and the following sizes are used:

* 6mm (10mm across flats)

* 8mm (originally 14mm across flats, replacements 13mm)

* 10mm (17mm across flats)

* 12mm (19mm across flats)

Screws

All screws are slot head type.

Studs

All studs are 6mm, 8mm or 12mm, either plain or shouldered

Nuts

All nuts are hexagonal, either plain, castellated (locked by split pin) or domed (as on wheel spindles). (Dynamo bevel gear retaining nuts are an exception, being round castellated pattern requiring a special spanner).

Washers

Fibre washers are used in some places to prevent damage to surfaces. Flat washers of galvanised or stainless steel are used for the same purpose. Spring washers are locking washers (see below).

Locking methods

* Spring washers are used when connecting parts. Spring washers must be in direct contact with the screw head or nut. A flat washer should be placed under a spring washer if the fastening to a light- alloy metal surface,

* Locking washers / locking tabs prevent fasteners from loosening, typically by means of a section of the washer or tab being folded against a flat of a bolt head or nut, while the washer or tab is itself secured against turning.

* Locking wire can be used if the bolt head or nut is drilled.

* Split pins are used to lock castellated nuts to drilled bolts.

* Special purpose adhesives such as 'Loctite' are now available and are very effective when applied to thoroughly cleaned and dry fasteners. There are various grades of these 'anaerobic expansive' products. Some are suitable for locking bearings into place.

Torque settings

In some cases, applying the correct torque setting to a fastener is essential. (Page 210) The head of the bolt may bear a code indicating the grade of material and therefore the maximum allowable torque. Recommended torque settings assume clean, dry, undamaged threads. Torque figures are usually specified in foot-pounds (ft/lbs) or New- ton-metres (Nm).

Hand Tools

Hammers

* Engineer's ball-peen hammer

* Soft-faced hammer (rubber, plastic, or fibre faced)

Spanners

* Adjustable spanners

* Ring spanners

* Open-end spanners

* Combination spanners (one ring end and one open end of the same size)

* Sockets - used with square-drive ratchet handles

* Box spanner / tubular spanner

* Torque wrench

Pliers

* Combination pliers

* Circlip pliers

* Multigrip pliers

Screwdrivers

Make sure you have a selection of flat-blade screwdrivers to fit the varied sizes of slot-head screws found on the Nimbus. The blade of each screwdriver should be ground so that the flat sides are slightly hollowed and parallel at the tip, reducing the risk of damaging the screw head. Right-angled screw drivers can be useful where access is difficult (for example when removing the Nimbus dynamo’s brush holder screws).

Special-purpose tools

For the Nimbus-C motorcycle the factory developed a set of 'Service Tools' for certain specific repair operations. General-purpose tools can be used, but with care and less conveniently for some, but not all of these operations. In such cases, repairs have to be carried out in a specialised workshop. Factory service tools marked * appear in the DNT Drawing Archive.

Where service tools are mentioned or illustrated in this book, tool numbers and the Archive drawing numbers are given.

Drawing Tool Tool description
8999 N10 Puller for dynamo gear wheel
8999 N14 Puller for dynamo gear wheel
9000* N11 Puller for flywheel
9000-2* Puller for flywheel
9001* N12 Puller for crankshaft bevel gear wheel and main bearing
9002* N15 Holding bracket for dynamo
9003* N16 T-bar socket for upper dynamo bevel gear retaining nut
9004* N17 T-bar socket 27mm for flywheel and fork stem top nut
9005* N18 Offset 14mm spanner for cylinder head fasteners
9006 N22 Circlip fitting tool
9007 Reamer, connecting rod small end bush
9007 Puller for camshaft bevel gear wheel
9008 N25 Valve facing set, complete in box
9009 N26 Engine stand
9010 Workshop stand
9011* N27 Drive shaft tool
9011-2 Puller for drive shaft hub
9012* N28 Adjustment gauge for final drive pinion
9013* N29 Puller for wheel bearing outer race
9014* N32 Distance piece, rear hub assembly
9015* N33 Fork bush extractor for bush
9016* N35 Test mandrel for fork tubes
9017* N36A Test gauge for fork tubes
9018* N36B Test gauge for fork tubes
9019* N40 Spanner 46mm steering head bearing nut
9020* N41 Alignment tool for clutch plate
9020-2* Alignment tool for clutch plate
9021* N42 Retainer for connecting rod bolt
9022* N43 Drift for gudgeon pin
9023* N44 Clutch compression tool
9024* N45 Drift for main bearing
9025* N46 Drift for bevel gear wheel
9026* N47 Valve spring compressor
9027* N48 Drift for valve guide
9028* N49 Drift for small end bush and bevel gear bush
9029* N50 Drift for small end bush
9030* Frame alignment gauge
9031* N52 'C' spanner for speedometer worm gear
9032* N53 Drift for front wheel bearing and telescopic fork bushes
G-9033* N29 Extractor for front wheel bearing
9034* Rear frame alignment tool
9035* N56 Drift for fork stem bearing cone
9036 Drilling template for cylinder head (Valve enclosure)
9037* N58 Drift for removing sidecar axle
9038* N59 Drift for fitting sidecar axle
9040* Tool board with profiles
9041* Tool holders for tool board
9042* Tool board
9043* Installation tool for dynamo upper bevel gear 7115
9044* Installation tool for dynamo upper bevel gear 7147
9046* N54 Hand reamer 16mm for connecting rod small end bush
9047* Drilling template for saddle suspension brackets
9048 T- bar socket 14mm
9049 T-bar socket 19mm

Improvised tools

If factory service tools are not available, consult the Drawing Archive. In many cases it may be possible to make a substitute, as exact dimensions are given. Right: In absence of tool number 9003/N16 T-bar socket.

Measuring equipment

In order to be able to take dimensions in case of engine overhaul, a vernier, dial, or digital calliper and a micrometer will be needed. Dial gauges are particularly useful for measuring specified tolerances (as in trueing wheels) or backlash (when fitting gears).

Drawing Archive

The Nimbus-C factory engineering drawings available in the Drawing Archive were produced 40 to 70 years ago to the standards of that time, and are certainly very useful today. Some more recent drawings lack precise spare part dimensions and do not comply with the requirements for technical drawings. Some spare parts do not have original factory part numbers but have been assigned an identifying number. That is the case with helical . timing gears for example.

In 2006 the Danish Nimbus Touring Club (DNT) produced two compact discs with original Nimbus construction drawings and drawings of prototypes and new developments.

The opening text on the CD reads:

Drawings from A/S Fisker and Nielsen’s drawing archive were registered and photocopied by Danmarks Nimbus Touring in 1982 and as many missing drawings as possible have been re-created by measuring spare parts. All drawings were scanned by Danmarks Nimbus Touring between 2002 and 2005.

The Nimbus-C drawings are organized according to A/S Fisker and Nielsen's Parts Catalogue published in 1951 and updated in February 1958. Drawings for the Nimbus A/B are organised according to component categories. Drawing numbers with a preceding G are combined drawings which illustrate multiple parts. The meaning of a preceding E is unclear, but might indicate a repeat order. Trailing characters to a drawing number indicate the following:

S (Smede) - the drawing is of forged parts

P (Plade) - the drawing is of sheet metal parts

A (Arbejde) - a working or production drawing

K (Kalkule) - a drawing including calculations or other documentation.

Nimbus-C archive drawings

Whereas there is a limited collection of drawings for the Nimbus- A/B, an almost complete set of drawings for the Nimbus-C survives. The drawings are on CD and arranged in folders corresponding to the organisation of the Nimbus-C Parts Catalogue. Each folder contains all drawings

Each file contains a sub file with drawing in PDF-format (to be opened with Adobe Reader) and a file with drawings in TIF-format. Besides, all files open up automatically in JPG-format. Most of the scanned drawings are very large and besides that, very dirty. That means that a certain computer capacity is required for opening and printing the drawings, where required, especially those which are in TIF-format.

Archive searching

Use the computer search function, specifying the drawing number (part number).

Engine

Removing the engine from the frame

Disconnect all wires from the battery. Disconnect the earth/fuse holder (8032) from the engine (where applicable).

Remove the screws (5400) from the brush-holder cover (7872) on the right side of the dynamo. Label the 'D' and 'F' wires before disconnecting them to avoid any mistake when reconnecting them. Disconnect the wire to the 'D' carbon brush and remove the brush. Disconnect the 'F' wire.

Disconnect the 'I' wire from the ignition coil (7706) (see wiring diagram).

Remove the ignition coil by detaching the H.T. leads, swinging down the retaining clip (7690 or 8185), and easing the ignition coil forward. If the coil does not readily separate from the distributor (7392 or 8175), remove the screw (5350) from the distributor adjustment plate and remove the ignition coil and distributor together. This will remove the rotor (7432) at the same time.

  • Remove the carburettor:
  • Remove the crankcase breather pipe (7684 or 8583), which also serves as the oil filler cap. Block the oil filler hole with a clean rag or similar.
  • Detach the throttle cable (7673 or 8927) from the hook of the twist grip and free the cable from the frame.
  • Remove the fuel line (7683, 8183 or 8577).
  • Remove the air filter (8584), which is attached by three screws (8578). Note: The 1934 carburettor has an air intake screen (7498) which is removed together with the carburettor.
  • Remove the choke assembly (8597) and the carburettor. These are secured to the cylinder head inlet manifold by the same two screws (7429 or 8594).
  • Remove the paper gasket (7521).
  • Remove the exhaust manifold (7144) and heat shield (8023 or 8454). Take care: The bolts and nuts will often be tight due to corrosion. Note that different fixing arrangements for the manifold and the heat shield have been used. The exhaust pipe can also be removed at this stage.
  • Disconnect the clutch release and gearchange mechanisms.

For hand-change machines:

  • Remove the pivot bolt (7270) and remove the gear lever (7477) from the frame. Remove the pull rod (8408) that connects the clutch pedal to gearbox.
  • Remove the split pin (3867) securing the clutch cable to the clutch lever (8415) and release the cable (8413).
  • Remove the lever pivot bolt (8416) and the lever.
  • Remove the linkage (8408) which connects the foot change assembly to the gearbox.

For foot-change and later version gearbox machines:

- Pull in the clutch until a wooden block can be wedged between the clutch release arm (9218) and the mudguard.

Remove the split pin (3867) from the release arm and remove the clutch cable (8944). Wire the release arm in place and then remove the block.

  • Remove the linkage (9221) from the foot-change assembly to the gearbox.
  • Remove the tool box (7610) if it is mounted under the frame.

Remove the centre stand (7300 or 8328). The motorcycle will need to be supported by blocks under the footrests.

  • Pack blocks under the sump to take all weight off the wheels.
  • Remove the four bolts (7269) which secure the engine to the frame.

There are alternative ways to continue:

Either:

  • Remove the rear wheel.
  • Remove the drive shaft (7131, 8258 or 8258-2) and its compression spring (8388) from the lay shaft.
  • Replace the rear wheel, but without the drive shaft. Do not tighten the bolts that secure the brake back plate and final drive housing to the rear wheel and do not tighten the nuts of the rear axle.
  • Lift the frame up and forward over the engine. Note that the cen- tre stand-mounting brackets of the lower frame rail have to be eased apart slightly to allow the centre stand spring attachments to clear the crankcase - sump joint.
  • The centre stand can now be refitted to the frame.

Or:

Leave the rear wheel in place.

  • Ease the motorcycle back until the drive shaft (7131, 8258 or 8258-2) can be disengaged from the lay shaft while remaining fully engaged at the final drive assembly. Recover the compression spring (8388).
  • Lift the motorcycle by the fork legs and move it back over the engine. Note that the centre stand- mounting brackets at the lower end of the frame have to be eased apart slightly to allow the two pins for the centre stand springs to clear the crankcase - sump joint.

- The centre stand can now be refitted to the frame.

Replacing the engine in the frame

- Place the engine and gearbox assembly on blocks, so that the four engine mounting holes will be at the same height as the mounting holes in the lower frame when both wheels are fitted to the motorcycle. For an engine with the later gearbox, the clutch release arm (9218) has to be wired in the fully-in position so as to clear the mudguard.