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© 2020 Sven Jungclaus
1. Correction 2021
Herstellung und Verlag:
BoD – Books on Demand GmbH, Norderstedt
ISBN 9783752694635
All rights reserved. It is not permitted to save,
copy or otherwise reproduce this book or any part of it
in any form whatsoever, whether for private or educational use,
without the prior written consent of the copyright holder.
The enthusiasm for home-made is growing, tailoring is experiencing a renaissance. Whether you are professionally tailoring or sewing is your favorite hobby - this book supports you with practical step-by-step instructions in creating a suitable pattern and cutting the cloth.
Some men's tailors like to dismiss ladies' tailoring as being fairly simple and unprofessional. But pattern drafting for women's clothing is far more complicated and complex than for men's clothing. Because more curves make it difficult to achieve a perfect fit. This book will help you create body-hugging clothes for different shapes.
Finally fitting garments!
Once you have acquired the most important basic patterns, you have an optimal basis. With a little practice and imagination, you will soon be able to make the desired modifications to your sewing patterns yourself.
From now on you can create the patterns for pants, skirts, dresses, blouses, blazers, or coats according to your own measurements.
You no longer need to be annoyed that the pieces that have been made with industrial patterns are not fitting properly ...
Limits in the basic pattern
In the case of large differences from standard sizes, there are limits to the proportional calculation of the basic pattern. But with enough seam allowances, a little courage, and a lot of practice, almost any problem can be solved.
Trust your creativity, get valuable instructions in this book, and get started! Enjoy your latest creations!
The right tools are essential for good work. As pattern paper you can use wrapping paper, newspaper or something similar. In the picture you see other utensils that you might need for taking measurements, creating patterns and cutting:
Neck (NE)
When measuring the neck, care must be taken that the tape measure is not set too high. The circumference is measured at the base of the neck (on the skin), directly above the collarbone. It helps to keep two fingers between tape measure and neck so as not to measure too narrow.
Chest (CHE)
When measuring the chest, the tape measure will be placed around the most prominent point, then passed under the arms and slightly higher at the back.
Underbust (UB)
This measure is taken under the breast, at the level of the bra fastener.
Waistline (WAI)
The waistline is measured exactly around the waist, at the narrowest point just above the hipbone. Here a waist measuring tape is fixed.
Be sure that the measuring tape runs horizontally, both from left to right, and from front to back.
Waistband (WB)
The waistband is measured at the height of the desired position.
Hip (HIP)
The hip circumference, or seat, is measured horizontally around the strongest point of the buttocks.
Height (HEI)
Mostly, the client knows her height. If you do not trust this information, it is measured from the top of the head to the sole of the foot, preferably without shoes.
Otherwise, simply subtract the heel height.
Nape to knee (NTK)
The nape-to-knee is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back across the seat to the knee.
Cervical vertebra point (CVP)
The 7th cervical vertebra is the vertebra protruding slightly at the back of the neck - in the pattern constructions it is called the cervical-vertebra-point CVP.
Depth of Scye / Depth of armhole (DOS)
To measure the depth of scye, push a piece of cardboard under the customer's arm and measure from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back to the upper edge of the cardboard.
Proportional calculation formula:
DOS = approx. 1/10 HEI.
Nape to waistline / Waist length (WL)
The length of the waist is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back to the tape measure fixed at the waist.
Proportional calculation formula:
WL = approx. 1/5 HEI.
Taking measurements
Full shoulder width (FUSH)
The entire shoulder width is measured from the left shoulder bone, across the back to the right shoulder bone.
Shoulder width (SH)
The shoulder width is measured from the neckline to the shoulder bone.
Back width (BW)
It is measured across the back in a relaxed position, from the left to the right arm.
Proportional calculation formula:
BW = approx. 2/10 CHE - 2 cm.
If you are measuring carefully, you should always use the measured 1/2 BW for your patterns, instead of the calculation.
Shoulder angle (SA)
The shoulder angle can be easily determined with the mobile phone and a protractor app. The device is placed on the shoulder at the base of the neck. This makes it easier to classify a hanging shoulder. It is best to measure directly with the desired shoulder pad.
You can also guess the approximate shoulder angle by observation:
| high shoulders | approx. 3° - 9° |
| normal shoulders | approx. 10° - 15° |
| slope shoulders | approx. 16° - 21° |
Advice
Women's shoulders, unlike men's, are often very straight. Therefore, only very thin shoulder pads should be used, if at all.
Breast width (BRW)
The breast width is measured across the strongest breast point from the left to the right arm. Proportional calculation formula:
BRW = approx. 2/10 CHE + 2 cm.
If you are measuring carefully, you should always use the measured 1/2 BRW for your patterns, instead of the calculation.
Breast distance (BD)
The distance between the two breast tips.
Upper arm (UPA)
For strong biceps, this measure should be read necessarily. It is measured around the strongest point of the upper arm.
Wrist (WR)
It is measured around the narrowest part of the wrist, directly on the wrist bone.
Sleeve length (SL)
Measure the sleeve length from the shoulder bone over a slightly bent elbow to about 2 cm above the first thumb joint.
Depth of brest (DOB)
The depth of breast is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (see explanation NTK, p. →) over the shoulder to the front, to the point of the breast. Be aware that each bra is adjusted differently.
Nape to front waist / Front waist length (FWL)
The front-waist-length is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra over the shoulder to the front across the breast point, to the tape measure fixed at the waist. Take particular care that the tape measure does not slip down at the front.
Breast dart (BDA)
Increase the template of the angle on page → and use it to measure the breast dart.
The horizontal part must lie in balance, the vertical part must touch the tip of the breast. This measurement is read exactly on the middle of the shoulder where the shoulder seam should sit.
Video instruction
You can find explanations on our website:
https://www.becomeatailor.com/tools/
Back pants length (BPL)
First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the back pants length is measured from the waistband down to the floor. (If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)
Outside leg (OUTL)
First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit.
Now the outside leg can be measured on the side from the waistband down to the floor.
(If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)
Inside leg (INL)
To measure the inside leg, have the customer pull up the pants into the crotch. Then it is easy to determine the measurement on the inside of the leg from the crotch to the floor (if the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted). If the customer is wearing a skirt, she should hold the tape measure in the crotch.
Front pants length (FPL)
First, fix a tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the front length of the pants is measured from the waistband down to the floor (if the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted).
Skirt length (LG)
First fix the waist tape measure where the waistband should sit. Now measure down from the waistband to the desired length.
Thigh (TH)
The thigh circumference is measured around the strongest point of the thigh, about 10 cm below the crotch.
Calf (CAL)
The width of the calf is measured at the strongest point.
Width of length (WOL)
The hem circumference is measured at the bottom of the trouser hem, or at the ankle, according to the customer requirements.
| Taken measurements | 1/2 1/4 | |||
| Height (HEI) | 168 | |||
| Neck (NE) | 32 | |||
| Chest (CHE) | 90 | 45 | 22.5 | |||
| Underbust (UB) | 76 | |||
| Waist (WAI) | 70 | 35 | 17.5 | |||
| Waistband (WB) | 82 | 41 | 20.5 | |||
| Hip (HIP) | 96 | 48 | 24 | |||
| Breast dart (BDA) | 8.5 cm | |||
| Breast distance (BD) | 16 cm | |||
| Depth of breast (DOB) | 34 - 8 cm (measured back neckline) = 26 cm | |||
| Front waist length (FWL) | 49 - 8 cm (measured back neckline) = 41 cm | |||
| Full shoulder (FSH) | 38 cm | |||
| Shoulder (SH) | 12.5 cm | |||
| Depth of scye (DOS) | 17 cm | |||
| Waist length (WL) | 35 cm | |||
| Shoulder angle (SA) | 6° (high shoulders) | |||
Calculated measurements
| Neckline (NL) | =1/6 NE + 1.5 = 6.8 cm |
| Back width (BW) | =2/10 CHE - 2 = 16 cm |
| Width of scye (WOS) | =1/2 CHE - 1/2 BW - 1/2 BRW |
| (proportional width of scye | = 1/10 CHE = 9 cm) |
| Breast width (BRW) | =2/10 CHE + 2 = 20 cm |
| Back shoulder angle (BSA) | =measured shoulder anglel + approx. 5° = 11° |
| Front shoulder angle (FSA) | =measured shoulder angle + approx. 2°= 8° |
| Depth of hip (DOH) | =1/8 HEI = 21 cm |
Control
All measures in the pattern should be compared with the taken measurements and the desired fullness before cutting.
Instructions
In the following picture you can see the theoretical proportional division of the 1/2 breast size into back-width BW, width-of-scye WOS and breast-width BRW.
The proportional division of the fullness is based on the same principle. If you e.g. want to incorporate 5 cm extra width on the 1/2 breast, add 2 cm for BW and BRW and 1 cm for WOS.
However, the width of the breast can be very different and does not follow any mathematical logic. Therefore, the more complex variant of the calculation should be used. Although this is more complicated, it is also much more precise.
e.g.