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The fit refers to the optimal way clothes suits the body. This may sound obvious, but it presents many challenges. Because in addition to different body dimensions, each person has their posture and individual body proportions.

Therefore, a ready-to-wear size sometimes has very little to do with an ideal fit. Classic ready-to-wear sizes are guidelines for the garments' length and width – they serve as a guide. After all, just because a garment is neither too tight nor too wide does not mean that it fits well.

This book examines the causes of poor fit and offers optimal solutions to the most common problems concerning the fit. Personal stylistic preferences are irrelevant in this context. Whether one tends towards the modern slim-fit shape or the classic wider cut, the garment should always fit with as few wrinkles as possible.

Another challenge is the multitude of possibilities to achieve a perfect fit. It is rarely achieved with a single adjustment. Often the solution to a problem consists of a combination of several steps of modification. For the sake of convenience, the most common fitting errors are described individually on the following pages. Do not be afraid to combine specific improvements separately to achieve an even better result.

In most cases, it is advisable to work in the client's posture and proportions as early as the pattern-making stage. That spares tailors or sewists and customers from long and tedious fittings.

The more time you spend on the fit, the more you sharpen your eye for emerging problems. And the more causes you have discovered and eliminated, the easier it will be the next time. Have courage; practice makes perfect!

Taking measurements

Taking measurements

Measurement sheet

You will find a sheet in the appendix on page →.

Neck (NE)

When measuring the neck, care must be taken that the tape measure is not set too high. The circumference is measured at the base of the neck (on the skin), directly above the collarbone. It helps to keep two fingers between the tape measure and neck not to measure too narrow.

Chest (CHE)

When measuring the chest, the tape measure will be placed around the strongest chest point, then passed under the arms and slightly higher at the back.

Waistline (WAI)

The waistline is measured exactly around the waist, at the narrowest point just above the hipbone. Here a waist measuring tape is fixed.

Waistband (WB)

The waistband is measured at the height of the desired position.

HIP

The hip width, or seat, is measured horizontally around the strongest point of the buttocks.

Shoulder width (SH)

The shoulder width is measured from the neckline to the shoulder bone.

Chest width (CW)

The chest width is measured across the strongest breast point from the left to the right arm.

Upper arm (UPA)

For muscular biceps, this measure is necessary. It is measured around the strongest point of the upper arm.

Sleeve length (SL)

Measure the sleeve length from the shoulder bone over a slightly bent elbow to about 2 cm above the first thumb joint.

Depth of brest (DOB)

The depth of the breast is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra across the shoulder to the front, to the point of the breast.

The 7th cervical vertebra is the vertebra protruding slightly at the back of the neck - in the pattern constructions, it is called the cervical-vertebra-point CVP.

Nape to front waist / Front waist length (FWL)

The front-waist-length is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra over the shoulder across the breast to the tape measure fixed at the waist.

Full shoulder width (FUSH)

The full shoulder width is measured from the left shoulder bone, across the back to the right shoulder bone.

Back width (BW)

It is measured across the back in a relaxed position, from the left to the right arm.

Depth of Scye / Depth of armhole (DOS)

To measure the depth of scye, push a piece of cardboard under the customer's arm and measure from the 7th cervical vertebra along the middle of the back to the cardboard's upper edge.

Nape to waistline / Waist length (WL)

The waist's length is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the middle of the back to the tape measure fixed at the waistline.

Height (HEI)

Mostly, the customer knows his height. If you do not trust this information, it is measured from the top of the head to the sole, preferably without shoes. Otherwise, subtract the heel height.

Nape to knee (NTK)

The nape-to-knee is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back across the seat to the knee.

The 7th cervical vertebra is the vertebra protruding slightly at the back of the neck - in the pattern constructions, it is called the cervical-vertebra-point CVP.

Back pants length (BPL)

First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the back pants length is measured from the waistband to the floor.

(If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)

Outside leg (OUTL)

First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the outside leg can be measured on the side from the waistband down to the floor. (If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)

Inside leg (INL)

To measure the inside leg, have the customer pull up the pants into the crotch. Then it is easy to determine the measurement on the legs' inside from the crotch to the floor. (If the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted.)

Front pants length (FPL)

First, fix a tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the front length of the pants is measured from the waistband down to the floor. (If the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted.)

Thigh (TH)

The thigh circumference is measured around the thigh's strongest point, about 10 cm below the crotch.

Width of length (WOL)

The hem circumference is measured at the bottom of the trouser hem according to the customer requirements.

Width of cuffs (WOC)

The width of the cuff is measured around the wrist, directly at the base of the hand. If the customer always wears a watch, this must be taken into account on one side.

Depth of stomach (DST)

The depth of the stomach is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (see explanation NTK, p. →), over the shoulder across the front, to the strongest point on the stomach. Since there are different belly shapes, such as a high stomach, pointed, or hanging belly, this measurement is essential for a perfect fit.

Under belly waistband (UBWB)

If the customer wears their trousers below the stomach, this measurement is incredibly important and is also used as the low waistline.

Attention:

The front pants length and the later zipper of the trousers are remarkably short in trousers that sit below the belly.

Shoulder angle (SA)

Contents

Taking measurements

Taking measurements