Sewing For Dummies®, 2nd Edition
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Copyright © 2004 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2004110093
ISBN: 978-0-7645-6847-3
Manufactured in the United States of America
15 14 13 12
2B/TR/RR/QY/IN
Jan Saunders Maresh is a nationally known sewing and serging journalist and home economist. After graduating from Adrian College in Michigan, she became the education director of one of the largest sewing machine companies in the country, and then the director of consumer education for the largest fabric chain in the country. Both professional experiences give her a solid foundation in the home sewing industry, which she continues to serve with her many writing, marketing, and industry consulting projects.
In addition to writing for several home sewing publications, she is a best-selling author for several publishers, with 14 books to her credit. Many of her titles have been chosen as main selections for the Crafters’ Choice Collection, a division of the Book-of-the-Month Club.
To promote her projects, Jan has been a frequent guest on several PBS television shows. Jan also makes regular appearances on the Home Shopping Network and the Home & Garden Network. One of her segments has been the most popular with viewers since the series started in 1995. When she’s not writing (or running kids to soccer practice), serving as founder and president of her own direct sales company keeps her busy teaching and motivating consumers by helping them to create beautiful homes using her do-it-yourself home decor products.
Jan currently resides in Camas, Washington (just outside Portland, Oregon), with her husband, son, dog, and a collection of books, sewing equipment, fabric, and crafting products stashed in every available corner of her home.
At age 7, I learned to sew under the watchful eye of my grandmother. When I had finished hand-stitching the set-in sleeves of a doll jacket, I cried and cried because it didn’t look right. Grandma gently grabbed the jacket from me and turned the sleeves “inside out.” It was a miracle — the jacket looked just like the one in the store. From that moment on, I was hooked on sewing. It’s been an intimate part of who I am ever since. Thank you, Grandma, for being my first teacher.
A big-time thank you also goes to my parents, Ray and Bernice Saunders. Although I grew up on a strict budget, there was always money for fabric and plenty of praise for my handmade creations.
Thanks also to my most understanding and tolerant husband, Ted Maresh, who hardly mentions the dozens of boxes, packed closets, and my home office overflowing with fabric and sewing paraphernalia. Yes, I will start cooking again, now that the book is done. And a big thank you to my wonderfully patient son, Todd Moser, who has given up a lot of time with me so I could work on this book.
I have the most wonderful network of friends who have influenced what I’ve done in my life and career. You provide inspiration, knowledge, encouragement, and expertise, and I thank each of you from the bottom of my heart. Without you, this book would have been written by someone else. Thank you, Robbie Fanning, for teaching me so much about writing, sewing, and keeping life in perspective. Thank you, Jackie Dodson, for your incredible sense of humor, for your sewing help on a tight deadline, your creative genius, and friendship. Thank you, Gail Brown, for your constant encouragement and market savvy. Thank you, Karyl Garbow, for being a kindred spirit for almost 30 years. Thank you, Sue Hausmann, for your dedication to sewing education in our industry and for always sharing your wisdom with me no matter the time of day. Thank you, Judy Raymond and Maureen Dudley at Simplicity Pattern Company, for your help and support of this project and for publishing and promoting the Sewing For Dummies sewing patterns. Many more people have the courage to try sewing for the first time because of your efforts.
Thank you, Kate Singh, for the beautiful photographs and the kind treatment of the projects in this book. Thank you, Ally Geller, for the lovely home accessories that dressed up our room settings for those photographs. Thank you, Lisa Reed, for your tremendously talented hand and critical eye in illustrating the additional art included in this second edition. And thank you Natasha Graf, Traci Cumbay, Laurie Baker, and the team of incredible editors at Wiley Publishing that helped my words sound brilliant and encouraged my sense of humor about this craft I love so much. You are all truly amazing at what you do and how you do it.
This book is dedicated to the memory of Chris Hansen, the wonderful illustrator of this book. Chris’s incredible talent and extraordinary hand added clarity to my words about sewing (and those of many other writers in this industry) for over 30 years. He illustrated with a terrific sense of humor and an incredible knowledge of sewing, which made all of us better at our craft. The sewing community is much richer because of Chris and we all miss him.
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/.
Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:
Acquisitions, Editorial, and Media Development
Project Editor: Traci Cumbay
Acquisitions Editor: Natasha Graf
Copy Editors: Josh Dials, Laura K. Miller, Chad Sievers
Technical Editor: Laurie Baker
Senior Permissions Editor: Carmen Krikorian
Editorial Manager: Jennifer Ehrlich
Media Development Manager: Laura VanWinkle
Editorial Assistants: Courtney Allen, Melissa Bennett
Cover Photo: © F. Schussler/PhotoLink/ Photodisc/ PictureQuest
Cartoons: Rich Tennant, www.the5thwave.com
Composition
Project Coordinator: Adrienne Martinez
Layout and Graphics: Denny Hager, Joyce Haughey, Heather Ryan, Brent Savage
Illustrations: Chris Hansen, Lisa Reed
Proofreaders: Andy Hollandbeck, Charles Spencer, Aptara
Indexer: Aptara
Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies
Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies
Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies
Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies
Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel
Brice Gosnell, Associate Publisher, Travel
Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel
Publishing for Technology Dummies
Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/General User
Composition Services
Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services
Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services
Title
Introduction
About This Book
What’s New in This Edition
Conventions Used in This Book
Foolish Assumptions
How This Book Is Organized
Icons Used in This Book
Where to Go from Here
Part I : Hardware and “Softwear” for Sewing
Chapter 1: Assembling Your Sewing Kit
Making Sure Your Sewing Measures Up
Cutting Up (Without Cracking Up)
Making Your Mark
Pinning Down Your Projects
Pressing Issues
Needing the Right Needles
Working with a Sewing Machine
Chapter 2: Selecting Fabric, Findings, and Interfacing
Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Project
Getting Notions about Findings
Investigating Interfacing
Preshrinking Your Fabric
Chapter 3: Closing In on Threads and Other Closers
Selecting the Thread for Your Project
Focusing on Fast and Fabulous Fasteners
Making a Low-Sew Greeting Card
Sewing Fast with Place Mats
Chapter 4: Working with Patterns
Shopping for Patterns
Sizing Things Up for Fashion Sewing
The Pattern and All Its Parts
Laying Out the Pattern
Pinning and Cutting Out the Pieces
On Your Mark!
Part II : Sewers! Start Your Engines!
Chapter 5: Sewing 101
Threading the Needle
Tying the Knot
Straight Talk on Hand Stitches
Making Machine Stitches Work for You
Starting and Stopping
Basting: The Key to a Better Fit
Sewing on Buttons
Pressing Matters
Chapter 6: Sewing Sensational Seams
Finish the Edges First!
Securing Your Seams
Seaming Fabrics
Let ’Er Rip
Shaping Up Those Curved Seams
Chapter 7: Hems and A-Ha’s
Marking a Hem
Deciding on the Hem Allowance
Finishing the Raw Edges of the Hem
Hemming Things Up
Hemming Pegged or Straight Hems
Hemming Knits
Part III : Fashion Fundamentals
Chapter 8: Shaping Things Up
Darting Around
Gathering No Moss
Tackling Tucks
You Can’t Beat Pleats
Getting Elastic
Chapter 9: Zippers and Company
Yes, Virginia, There Are Easy Ways to Put in Zippers
Buttonhole Basics
Chapter 10: Sleeves: The Long and the Short of It
Sleeveless Armhole Facings and Bindings
Rarin’ to Sew Raglan Sleeves
Big News about Set-In Sleeves and Armholes
Chapter 11: A Pocket Full of Ideas
A Little Pocket Primer
Stitching All-in-One Inseam Pockets
Putting Together Patch Pockets
Using the Pocket Patterns
Making a Cool Pocket Collage Shirt
Moving a Pocket and Making a Stain-Covering Appliqué
Chapter 12: Making the Little Black Dress
Selecting the Pattern, Fabric, and Notions
Laying Out, Cutting, and Marking Your Fabric
Putting Your Dress Together
Inserting the Zipper and Sewing the Seams
Facing the Neckline
Setting In the Sleeves
Hemming Your Dress
Part IV : Sewing for the Home
Chapter 13: Home Decor Sewing: The Cure for Decoraphobia
Conquering Decoraphobia
Tackling Trim
Attaching Piping, Cording, and Fringe
Making a Pillow with Moss Edge or Bullion Fringe
Attaching Tassels
Making a Reversible Table Runner
Chapter 14: Quick-Change Table Toppers
Selecting Your Fabric for Table Toppers
Making Napkins
Turning Out a Tablecloth
Romancing the Table (with Bows)
Chapter 15: Praiseworthy Pillows
Selecting Materials for Pillows
Don’t Toss That! Stitching a Pillow with an Old Shirt
Making a Cover to Fit a Pillow Form
No Sham Job Here: Crafting Your Own Flanged Pillow Sham
Sewing a One-Piece Fringed Envelope Pillow
Making a Trim and Border Pillow
Making a Box-Edged Pillow
Chapter 16: Wowing Up Your Windows
Wandering through the Wide World of Window Treatments
Calculating Cut Fabric Length and Width
Constructing a Window Cornice
Sewing the Easiest Shower Curtain Ever
Creating Simple Reversible Curtains and Draperies to Fit Any Window
Whipping Up a Shirred and Flipped Panel Window Treatment
Chapter 17: Making Ho-hum Linens Luxurious
Creating a Fleece Throw
Trimming Sheets and Towels
Making a Dust Ruffle
Creating a Custom Duvet Cover
Making a Bow-Tie Neck Roll
Chapter 18: Give Your Furnishings a Face-lift with Slipcovers
Creating a Double-duty Hamper Liner
Covering a Chair Back with a Bow-Back Cover
Dressing Up Any Old Chair with a Fit-to-be-tied Cover
Part V : Alterations and Quick Fixes
Chapter 19: Too Short, Long, Tight, or Loose? 12 Ways to Fix It Quick
When It’s Too Short
When It’s Too Long
When Pants Don’t Fit Well in the Rise
When It’s Too Tight
When It’s Too Loose
Chapter 20: Making Repairs on the Run
Repairing a Seam
Patching Holes and Rips
Mending Tears on Woven Fabric
Replacing Zippers (It’s Easier Than You Think)
Part VI : The Part of Tens
Chapter 21: Ten Tips for Mixing Prints
Stick with One Base
Run a Background Check
Go Solid and Save Money
Mix ‘n’ Match Manufacturers
Stare Down Your Prints
Weigh the Scales Before Mixing Your Prints
Try Before You Buy
Rely on a Collection
Buy More, Use Less
Consult a Pro
Chapter 22: Ten Mistakes Beginners Often Make
Attempting a Project beyond Your Skill Level
Choosing Difficult Fabrics to Work With
Choosing an Unflattering Style
Using the Wrong Fabric for the Pattern
Laying Out the Fabric Incorrectly
Neglecting to Use Interfacing
Failing to Press as You Sew
Using an Old, Beat-Up Sewing Machine
Neglecting to Use a New Needle on Every Project
Refusing to Cut Yourself Some Slack
Chapter 23: Ten Sewing Fundamentals to Remember
Buy the Best Fabric You Can Afford
Know Your Fabric Terminology
Know the Difference between Right and Wrong
Place Right Sides Together
Put Your Foot Down before Sewing
Stop and Start Sewing the Right Way
Righty, Tighty; Lefty, Loosey
Test-Stitch First
Sew from the Bottom Up and from the Center Out
Press Seams Flat and Together — and Open or to One Side
Clip with Your Scissors’ Tips
Appendix: Sewing Resources
: Color Insert
I love to sew. Period. First, there’s the immediate gratification of completing a project using beautiful fabrics and great timesaving tools. Then there’s the personal recognition — I get to admire my work and hear praise from my family and friends. On top of that, I save money sewing. Wow, what a hobby!
I’m betting that, after you have a couple of projects under your belt, you’ll love to sew as much as I do.
Sewing For Dummies, 2nd Edition, is a book for both absolute beginners and experienced sewers. If you’re a stone-cold beginner, you may appreciate that I explain everything necessary to sew beginning-level projects and that I don’t assume that you’ve ever even picked up a needle and thread before. If you’ve had some experience with sewing, Sewing For Dummies, 2nd Edition, still has something to offer — I give you tips and tricks that it took me years to pick up. All sewers can enjoy the projects in this book, no matter what their level of experience.
If you’re new to sewing, I suggest that you start by reading the chapters in Parts I and II. You can find some fundamental information on sewing in those parts. After that, you can skip around from chapter to chapter in the book, reading about the types of sewing and the projects that interest you.
With the home decorating craze in full swing, anyone who wants to beautify his or her home touches a piece of fabric. But then what? Never fear, Sewing For Dummies, 2nd Edition, is here. This time around, I tell you the best ways to put those creative juices into your home decor projects with tips, tricks, secrets, and fun projects I’ve used successfully in my own home, as well as in the homes of my family, friends, and neighbors. In this edition, you also find new illustrations that ensure your sewing success, an updated list of the most popular fabrics and how to use them, and even more innovative sewing shortcuts and techniques.
As you sew, you’re going to rely heavily on the tools in your Sewing Survival Kit, which I describe in Chapter 1. Keep it handy and well-stocked. You need it for just about every project listed in this book, and I wrote this book assuming that you have and use these tools.
You also see instructions throughout the book that can be completed by using a sewing machine or a serger. A serger is a specialized machine that saves a lot of sewing time; it sews the seam, overcasts the edge, and then cuts off the excess fabric from a seam allowance — all at the same time. I think of a serger like the microwave oven of sewing — you wouldn’t want make an entire project on a serger, but it sure speeds up the process.
As I wrote this book, I made some assumptions about you and your needs:
You don’t yet know how to sew or are looking for a refresher course.
You want to master the fundamentals of sewing.
You’re looking for tips and tricks to make your sewing and home decorating projects easier and more fun.
You want to start sewing as soon as possible.
If this sounds like you, you’ve come to the right book!
I organized this book into six parts so that it’s easy for you to find exactly the information you need.
In this part, I tell you about the hard and the soft tools you need for sewing and how to work with them, including your sewing machine, fabric, thread, and patterns.
Read the chapters in this part to find out how to do some things fundamental to sewing, including threading a needle, tying a knot, sewing on a button, sewing a seam, and hemming.
When you sew clothing, you usually start out with a pattern and a set of instructions for putting the project together. For a beginner, these pattern instructions can sometimes be a little intimidating. The instructions may tell you to do something (like sew a dart or apply a zipper) that you don’t know how to do. The chapters in this part help you decipher these sorts of techniques, which are essential to successful fashion sewing.
This part of the book lets you turn a little sewing knowledge into untold savings for your home. I show you how to sew pillows, duvet covers, dust ruffles, draperies and slipcovers, napkins, table runners, tablecloths, and more. Using the chapters in this part, you can create coordinated looks for almost every room in your home, quickly and inexpensively.
Are you suffering from the “terrible too’s” — clothes that are too tight, too loose, too long, or too short? Then read the chapters in this part when you want creative solutions to fixing what ails your clothing. I also show you how to do some basic repairs on holes, rips, and other mishaps.
In this part, I share with you tips for mixing fabrics without creating home decor havoc, ways to avoid common mistakes when you start sewing, and important guidelines for sewing smarter and faster. I also include an appendix of resources to help you find the materials you need.
Throughout this book, I guide you toward important points by using the following icons:
I wrote this book to be your sewing companion. Instead of putting it on the bookshelf for future reference after you finish reading it and making the projects, use it actively each time you sew — whether at home or in one of the many sewing classes available at your local sewing machine dealer or fabric store. Keep it handy so that when pattern guide sheet instructions direct you to do something, you can check out this book to find the fastest, most efficient way to accomplish the task.
I’ve spent my professional lifetime amassing these sewing methods (and more), and they fuel my love affair with the craft every time I sit in front of the machine. My fervent hope is that after spending a little time with this book, a beautiful piece of fabric, and your beloved sewing machine, your own love affair with sewing will blossom. Enjoy!
In this part . . .
To end up with a successful sewing project, you need to start out with good materials. These materials include your sewing machine, needles, thread, fabric, and pattern, among other things. I tell you about the very best tools for your sewing projects in this part. In addition, I tell you how to work with those tools after you have them, including how to navigate a sewing machine and how to lay out a pattern.
And just in case you’re thinking that I don’t give you anything fun to do in this part, you can think again. I include some low-sew projects guaranteed to impress your friends and family with how much you can do with your sewing machine.