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© 2020 Sven Jungclaus
Cover: Michael Punz
Pictures: Wolf Silveri
Pictures pages →-→:
Sven Jungclaus
Herstellung und Verlag:
BoD – Books on Demand GmbH, Norderstedt, Germany
ISBN 9783753428772
All rights reserved. It is not permitted to save,
copy or otherwise reproduce this book or any part of it
in any form whatsoever, whether or not for private or educational use,
without the prior written consent of the copyright holder.
It all starts here ...
Bespoke tailoring is nothing for beginners. On the other hand, at some point everybody started. The important thing is not to be afraid of undoing a seam and preserving patience and perseverance. In between, you can almost despair that nothing works as you would like. But at some point, the knot comes off, and you wonder why it took so long. Tailoring is not about being exceptionally fast. It is more important to work very neatly and accurate. The speed then comes by itself.
Practice creates masters
Especially at the beginning, you should not be satisfied with average results, but always try to improve. A tailor's apprentice does hundreds of buttonholes, piping pockets, and more, until they become even, tidy, and perfect.
Train your hands and eyes
With each pocket and buttonhole, you gain more skills. The eye can then recognize the difference between 4 and 5 mm. Finally, the hands and eyes have to be trained for this craft.
A craft is not learned in an afternoon
For tailoring, you should take your time. Sewing something in between can work, but then it usually looks like this. Especially at the beginning, you always have to keep the goal in mind, and like chess, you have to think several steps in advance, because every action has a consequence. And if you notice the error after five more steps, the correction is even more troublesome.
Think first, then start
Each chapter has countless steps whose order is significant for success.
Therefore, it is essential for the first sewing attempts to deal with the topic, to read the whole chapter, to think about it and, if necessary, to reread it until you have understood it theoretically. Only then does it make sense to venture into practice. Otherwise you can easily overlook something, forget it and in the end almost despair because everything has to be taken apart again.
Just do not lose heart
Anyone who has certain motor skills can tailor. You just have to start; the rest comes with repetition.
Have fun, endurance and patience while tailoring!
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Sewing tools
1 Buttonhole spring punch
2 Phillips screwdriver
3 Clothes brush
4 Gauge
5 Pins
6 Sewing needles
7 Bonefolder
8 Awl
9 Basting thread
10 French chalk
11 Sublimating chalk
12 Tape measure
13 Waist tape measure
14 Thimble
15 Scissors
16 Shears
17 Chalk sharpener
18 Pinking shears
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Useful tools
1 Small french curve
2 Big french curve
3 Armhole template
4 various cardboard templates according to your needs
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The ironing tools
1 Sleeve board
2 Torso pressing pad
3 Shoulder pressing pad
4 Ironing board for edges / clapper
5 Steam iron
6 Spray bottle
7 Heavy dry iron
8 Ironing cloth
9 Beeswax
Tailor tacking part 1
This transfers the chalk marks to the right side of the fabric and the other piece of cloth. First, loosely pinch with a double thread and cut open the stitches.
Tailor tacking part 2
Then carefully cut between the pieces of cloth. At the end, cut off the protruding threads. See also tacking the vest (p. 81).
Basting
For a quick connection, fixing and securing of 2 or more layers of cloth.
Pad stitching
For a permanent connection of 2 or more layers of cloth and canvas. Mainly used for the canvas itself (horsehair), under collars and lapels.
Blind stitching
For sewing in the lining. But it can also be useful in other places.
For
elastic seams such, e.g. the buttocks seam. But can also be used for all other seams, if you want to do it without the sewing machine.
Prick stitch
Is often used as decorative stitching for sewing in the lining. Unlike sink stitching, a nodule should be visible.
Quick sinking stitch
For places that are not obvious, such as, e.g. hem edges and back vents.
Carefully sewn sinking stitch part 1
For edges, lapels, flaps and other things, so that they remain flat and do not swell due to moisture.
Carefully sewn sinking stitch part 2
This variant is a bit more elaborate but gives a lovely stitch pattern on both sides.
Cross stitch
This stitch is not used very often but still is very important in some places.
Hemstitch
As the name indicates, it is suitable for fixing hems. Unlike the cross-stitch, the seam allowance is not visible on the right side when ironing flat.
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Cutting the shirt
Before cutting, it is essential to wash the fabric - which is usually made of cotton or linen - in the washing machine with the gentle or wool program at 30° C. The fabric can shrink significantly. With prewashing, the collar fits even after processing and when the shirt is rewashed.
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The cutting
Pictures 5/6
When cutting the shirt, you do not necessarily have to pay attention to the threading, unless you work with corduroy, flannel or something similar.
For white fabrics, it is advisable to draw the cutting parts carefully with a thin, soft pencil. These marks will be removed with the next washing.
The back darts
Picture 7
With pins, the dart is transferred and retraced to the other side.
Picture 8
Then the darts are folded at the dart-center-line and pressed.
Picture 9
When stitching, the seam must be locked at the beginning and the end (sewing back and forth). After that, the darts are ironed flat in the direction of the side seam.
The lower flap
Picture 10
The edge of the right front part - the lower flap - is first folded by 1 cm and ironed flat, then folded by 3 cm and ironed flat to the wrong side of the fabric.
To reinforce the lower flap, for holding the buttons, a strip of adhesive interlining can be added inside. Now the lower flap is sewn from the back very narrow to the edge (about 1-2 mm).
The button bar
Picture 11
The edge of the left front piece, the button bar, is folded and ironed twice by 3 cm. The cutting edge has to lie exactly in the fold. To reinforce the button bar, a strip of adhesive interlining can be added inside.
Then the edge is stitched by approx. 5 mm.
After that, the front part is folded back and ironed flat.
For symmetry, the button bar is also stitched on the other side by approx. 5 mm.
Picture 12
Left and right finished edges placed side by side.
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The back yoke
Picture 13
First, the inner back yoke is placed on the back. Facing the right fabric side of the yoke onto the left side of the back part and stitched with a narrow seam (0.5 cm).
Picture 14
Then the outer back yoke is stitched with a regular wide seam (0.75 cm) on the back, facing the right fabric side of the yoke to the right side of the back.
Picture 15
Afterwards, both back yokes are being ironed up one after the other. If desired, the back yoke can be fixed with a narrow seam (1 mm).
The sleeve vent
At the sleeve vent the binding and placket are stitched by approx. 5 mm. The binding belongs to the narrow side and the placket to the wider side.
Picture 16
Now the vent is cut open, and the corners at the end are pinched like a triangle.
Picture 17
The binding is now folded and ironed twice by 0.5 cm and then stitched through at the top. If desired, the binding can also be hand-stitched with blind stitching and then machine stitched from the top.
Now the binding is stitched together with the triangle, this way the slit looks clean inside.
Picture 18