Sewing For Dummies^®, 3rd Edition

Introduction

I love to sew. Period. First I get the immediate gratification of completing a project using beautiful fabrics and great timesaving tools. Then I can bask in the personal recognition — I get to admire my work and hear praise from my family and friends. On top of that, I save money sewing because I can make things (and make them right) instead of purchase them (and pay to have them altered, if necessary). Wow, what a hobby!

I’m betting that after you have a couple of projects under your belt you’ll love to sew as much as I do.

About This Book

Sewing For Dummies, 3rd Edition, is a book for both absolute beginners and experienced sewers. If you’re a stone-cold beginner, you may appreciate that I explain everything necessary to sew beginning-level projects and I don’t assume that you’ve ever even picked up a needle and thread before. If you’re not a complete stranger to needle and thread (or sewing machine and pedal), Sewing For Dummies, 3rd Edition, still has something to offer — I give you tips and tricks that it took me years to pick up. All sewers can enjoy the projects in this book, no matter what their level of experience.

With the “greening” of the world on everyone’s mind these days, I’ve taken a new approach to the projects in this edition. Many of the projects start with a used ready-to-wear garment that, with a little sewing sleight of hand, gets a refreshed new life. The rest of the projects have been redesigned and modernized to reflect the latest fashion trends and our more streamlined, uncluttered lives. The most significant improvement to the edition is the addition of over 100 new instructive illustrations. A picture says a thousand words, so the clearly written, no-nonsense instructions For Dummies books are famous for are enhanced with exceptional illustrations to ensure your success. As always, this all-new edition includes my favorite sewing techniques and the innovative shortcuts learned over my career. Remember, I’ve made every sewing mistake known to man (or woman), so you don’t have to!

Conventions Used in This Book

As you sew, you’re going to rely heavily on the tools in your sewing survival kit, which I describe in Chapter 2. Keep it handy and well stocked. You need it for just about every project listed in this book, and I wrote this book assuming that you have and use these tools.

You also see instructions throughout the book that can be completed by using a sewing machine or a serger. A serger is a specialized machine that saves a lot of sewing time; it sews the seam, overcasts the edge, and then cuts off the excess fabric from a seam allowance — all at the same time. I think of a serger like the microwave oven of sewing — you don’t usually make an entire project on a serger, but it sure speeds up the process.

Foolish Assumptions

As I wrote this book, I made some assumptions about you and your needs:

You don’t yet know how to sew or are looking for a refresher course.

You want to master the fundamentals of sewing.

You’re looking for tips and tricks to make your sewing projects easier and more fun.

You want to start sewing as soon as possible.

If this sounds like you, you’ve come to the right book!

How This Book Is Organized

I organized this book into six parts so it’s easy for you to find exactly the information you need.

Part I: Getting Ready to Sew

In this part I run through the tools you need for sewing and tell you how to work with them, including your sewing machine, fabric, thread, needles, pins, iron, and patterns.

Part II: Mastering Basic Sewing Skills

Read the chapters in this part to find out how to do some of the more fundamental tasks involved in sewing, including threading a needle, tying a knot, sewing a seam, and hemming.

Part III: Fashion Sewing Fun-damentals

When you sew clothing, you usually start out with a pattern and a set of instructions for putting the project together. For a beginner, these pattern instructions can sometimes be a little intimidating; the instructions may tell you to do something (like sew a dart or apply a zipper) that you don’t know how to do. The chapters in this part help you decipher techniques like putting in buttons and zippers, adding sleeves, and sewing pockets that are essential to successful fashion sewing.

Part IV: Sewing for Your Home

Sewing your own home fashions means that you get exactly what you want and save money — a winning combination! This part of the book lets you turn a little sewing knowledge into untold savings for your home. I show you how to sew pillows, a duvet cover, a bed skirt, draperies, napkins, a table runner, tablecloths, and more. Using the chapters in this part, you can quickly and inexpensively create coordinated looks for almost every room in your home.

Part V: Making Alterations and Quick Fixes for a Sustainable Wardrobe

Are you suffering from the terrible toos — clothes that are too tight, too loose, too long, or too short? This part is a lifesaver when you need creative solutions to fix what ails your clothing and get a little more wear from them before sending them off to the landfill. I also show you how to do some basic repairs on holes, rips, and other mishaps.

Part VI: The Part of Tens

In this part I share tips for avoiding common mistakes when you start sewing. I include the all-important guidelines for sewing smarter and faster along with tips for mixing fabrics without creating fashion faux pas or home décor havoc. I also include an appendix of resources and popular Web sites to help you find the materials you need.

Icons Used in This Book

Throughout this book I guide you toward important points by using the following icons:

Some sewing tools are essential to sewing, and others aren’t essential but are still nice to have as you sew. Try out the tools mentioned next to this icon — you may find one that helps you quite a bit with the sort of projects you like to do.

Next to this icon you find information that you should keep in the back of your mind as you sew. These points are key to creative and efficient sewing.

The information next to this icon tells you how to do something in the quickest and best way possible.

Make sure to read the text next to this icon. It can save you a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.

Where to Go from Here

If you’re new to sewing, I suggest that you start by reading the chapters in Parts I and II. You can find some fundamental information on sewing in those parts. After that, you can skip around from chapter to chapter in the book, reading about the types of sewing and the projects that interest you.

I wrote this book to be your sewing companion. Instead of putting it on the bookshelf for future reference after you finish reading it and making the projects, use it actively each time you sew — whether at home or in one of the many sewing classes available at your local sewing machine dealer or fabric store. Keep it handy so that when pattern guide sheet instructions direct you to do something, you can check out this book to find the fastest, most efficient way to accomplish the task.

I’ve spent my professional lifetime amassing these sewing methods (and more), and they fuel my love affair with the craft every time I sit in front of the machine. My fervent hope is that after spending a little time with this book, a beautiful piece of fabric, and your beloved sewing machine, your own love affair with sewing will blossom. Enjoy!

Part I

Getting Ready to Sew

In this part . . .

To end up with a successful sewing project, you need to start out with good materials. These materials include your sewing machine, needles, thread, fabric, and pattern, among other things. I tell you about the very best tools for your sewing projects in this part. In addition, I tell you how to work with those tools after you have them, including how to navigate a sewing machine and how to lay out a pattern.

Chapter 1

The World of Sewing

In This Chapter

Discovering why you should sew

Taking a look at the sewing process, seaming, and adding details

Understanding how sewing can save money and resources

Why sew? Simply put, it’s fun. You also get the gratification of making something useful and beautiful and the personal recognition from friends and family who are in awe of your raw, natural talent. Not to mention that what you learn about fabrics, fibers, and fashion helps you in other areas of your life.

You may think of sewing as a hobby in which you make clothes. But as you move from place to place in your busy life, start paying attention to how much fabric is used everywhere. You can sew Halloween costumes, teddy bears, prom dresses, and purses. Think of the fashions in home décor. A tablescape isn’t complete without some great-looking linens — that you can make, of course. You can update your house by making a wardrobe of pillows with a set of covers for every season or by sewing a new duvet cover. Need a gift? Make a throw or fill a basket with a set of napkins. It’s all possible when you sew. My friend and editor, Robbie Fanning, called this collection of possibilities “the world of sewing.”

Because the topic of sewing is so extensive and I have only so many pages in this book, I thoughtfully organized the world of sewing for you. I first walk you through the sewing process used in making clothing and then move on to ways to sew for your home and repair and remake existing clothing for a more sustainable wardrobe. My hope is that after you get to know more about this creative endeavor and have some success with the projects in this book, you’ll spread your wings and investigate the larger world of sewing.

Figuring Out What Comes First: The Idea or the Tools?

My family was on a strict budget when I was growing up, so I’d read my Seventeen magazine and head off to the mall to see what all the kids were wearing. After seeing just what I wanted and knowing it was too expensive, I’d pore over the pattern catalogs for the latest junior fashions that I could “knock off.”

Next stop — the fabric store. There I combed though the bolts for just the right fabric, color, and texture, and went on to the notions wall to find the right-sized buttons. Little did I know that I was shaping the skills I now use to create something trendy for myself, my family members, and my home.

So to answer the question of whether the idea or the tools come first, for me the idea or inspiration is first, and then the adventure of hunting for just the right project pattern and fabric starts me on my journey. After I find everything, I take it all home and put it together with tools — but not just any tools; tools that are a pleasure to use. Read on to understand what I mean.

The pleasure of using good tools

You can cook a five-course gourmet meal for eight by using nasty old pots and pans and cooking over an open fire, but it’s not a lot of fun. The same is true for sewing — you can make a project by sewing everything together with a hand needle and thread, but it takes a lot of time and patience and you may not like the results. For me, the joy of sewing is having quality tools at my fingertips. No scurrying around the house to find a pair of shears that haven’t been used in my husband’s workshop or pins that have been pulled off packaged dress shirts. Sure, good tools are an investment, but if you’re serious about learning to sew, nothing gets you closer to success than the pleasure of using a quality tool that works perfectly every time you use it. Not sure if you’ll like sewing but still want to try it? Take a sewing class at your local fabric store or sewing machine dealer where you can use great tools and quality equipment.

I spend some time in Chapter 2 sharing my favorite tools with you, so check it out. Besides the fabric and pattern, here’s what will make your sewing experience a real pleasure:

Measuring tools for small and large areas of a project. I love my 6-inch adjustable sewing gauge, my flexible vinyl tape measure, and the see-through O’Lipfa ruler with 1/4-inch increments.

Cutting tools for cutting out your project. I use 8-inch bent-handle dressmaking shears, 5-inch scissors for trimming smaller areas, and embroidery scissors for clipping and ripping out unwanted stitches. For long straight cutting, the pizza cutter–type rotary cutter is the best.

Marking tools to show you how to turn a flat, shapeless piece of fabric into something useful. You need a marking tool for dark-colored fabrics and one for light-colored fabrics. My favorites are disappearing dressmaker’s chalk that washes out with water and air-soluble markers.

Pinning tools both for pinning and to hold pins. My favorite pins for 90 percent of the sewing I do are 1-1/4-inch glass-head pins. To keep my pins from ending up all over the place, I use three magnetic pin catchers (one for the ironing board, one on the cutting table, and one next to my sewing machine). I also like a wrist pin cushion with a felt cushion so my pins are portable.

New hand and machine needles. After some use, needles wear out and need to be discarded. As far as hand needles go, specialty needles are available for just about every hand-sewing task. I most often use self-threading needles for basic hand sewing and easy repairs — I used these even before I needed reading glasses because the thread just clips into place, no squinting and poking thread ends through a microscopic eye required.

Thread to hold everything together. Be sure not to skimp on the thread — when you see three spools for $1, run (away from the store, not to it!). The quality of that thread isn’t worth the spool its wound on. Read more about choosing quality thread in Chapter 2.

A good sewing machine to enjoy the sewing experience. I said you need a good one, not an expensive one — and it doesn’t have to be new. Just buy it from a reputable sewing machine dealer that can offer you reliable service and lessons if you need them.

A serger — if you discover that you like to sew and want to take your newfound skill to a new level. If you’re new to sewing, you don’t need a serger, but after you have some experience, it makes the sewing process faster and more streamlined (like the microwave oven does for cooking).

Understanding fabrics and fibers

Among other perks of learning to sew, one cool thing is that you gain more knowledge about fabrics, fibers, how they respond to washing (or not), wearing, and pressing, and ultimately this knowledge makes you a savvier shopper of ready-to-wear garments. And because your time and effort is worth something, spend your sewing time wisely by buying the best fabric you can afford and the best fiber for the project you’re making. So what’s the difference between fiber and fabric?

Fabrics are woven or knitted yarns, which are created by twisting fibers together. Whether the fabric is all wool or a cotton-polyester blend, each fiber has its unique advantages and disadvantages, which makes one better than others for a particular project. (See more specific information about the most common types of fibers and fabrics in Chapter 3.)

If you aren’t sure about your fabric choice, the sales associate at your local fabric store is a great resource for locating just the right fabric for the project. Most have knowledge it would take you years to learn, so don’t be shy. Ask for help, tell her what you want to make, and ask for her best advice. This can save you time and guide you on your way to success.

Getting the sewing notion

In most fabric stores you find a notions wall that’s full of specialty tools and sewing stuff that can be packaged and hung up. Notions range from pins, needles, scissors, shears, and measuring tools, to buttons, bra hooks, collar stays, and iron-on knee patches. The list of notions needed for a particular project is listed on the back of your pattern envelope, so when in doubt, find what you need on the notions wall. Don’t be afraid to ask for help — what you need may be hidden in plain sight.

Pondering the pattern

Fabric stores have catalogs of patterns that you can browse through, but you only need to do a quick Internet search for “sewing patterns” and the world of sewing is at your fingertips. Looking for a particular project? Type in the project you want to make then “sewing pattern” after it to find even more choices. The Internet brings pattern catalogs home and puts the right project just a keystroke away. It also makes investigating independent pattern designers easy.

Choose a pattern designed for your skill set. If a pattern says it’s easy, the instruction writers often still assume you have some knowledge of sewing, so if you’re a true beginner, choose patterns for beginners. If you don’t, you may become discouraged and never sew again! Simplicity Pattern Company helps beginners find appropriate patterns with their line of “Sewing For Dummies” patterns. Check it out at www.simplicity.com.

When the pattern has been chosen, check out the front and back of the envelope for very important information: what fabric works best to achieve the results pictured on the front of the envelope, how much fabric to buy for the sized garment you’re making, what you need in the way of trims and notions (see above), and the front and back views shown in easy-to-read line drawings.

Inside the envelope you find an instruction sheet commonly referred to as the pattern guide sheet. The pattern guide sheet shows you which pattern pieces you need to use for a specific version of the pattern (several versions or views may be packaged in one pattern), shows you how to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric, and gives you step-by-step instructions showing you how to put the project together. Even though I’ve been sewing for years, I still refer to my pattern guide sheet to be sure that I haven’t forgotten to do something. You can read more about working with patterns in Chapter 4.

Use this book to supplement the pattern guide sheet instructions. Many times pattern instruction writers assume you know how to make a dart or sew in a zipper and may leave out information essential for your success. If you don’t understand what the instructions tell you, look up how I recommend you complete a particular technique. I’m confident that trying it my way will get ’er done and that you’ll pick up the skills and the lingo as you work though the project. So where to begin? In the following section I break it down and give you a general idea of where you’re headed — think of this as your sewing GPS at the mile-high view.

Sizing Up the Sewing Process

Like any new endeavor, sewing has its very own vocabulary, skill set, and process. After you decide on a project, select your pattern and fabric, and collect the notions and tools you need, the sewing process follows the basic steps outlined in this section to complete a project.

As you look over the rest of this chapter, it may occur to you that a lot happens before you start actually sewing things together. Have you noticed that it takes a long time for road crews to prepare to lay a new road and then almost overnight it’s in and you’re cruising smoothly along your merry way? That’s how it is with sewing. When you get your fabric and pattern; lay out, pin down, cut, and mark your pattern pieces; fuse on the interfacing; and finish the fabric edges; you’re two-thirds of the way finished. But I’m ahead of myself. Here’s a quick breakdown of the sewing process and the creative journey you’re about to take.

Preshrinking fabric

After getting home from fabric shopping, preshrink your washable fabrics so the finished project won’t shrink any more after it’s washed. (You can find the whys and hows of preshrinking in Chapter 3.)

If life gets in the way and you have to set your project aside temporarily, still preshrink the fabric when you first bring it home. That way you don’t have to wonder if the fabric is “needle ready” when you are.

Finding the right pattern pieces

Most patterns have a couple of variations included. Each variation is called a view and requires specific pattern pieces. Check out the pattern guide sheet to see what pattern pieces are needed for the view you’re making, then cut those pattern pieces apart from the large sheet of printed pattern paper and set them aside. Read more in-depth about this in Chapter 4.

Laying out the pattern on the fabric

The pattern guide sheet has a suggested pattern-piece layout for the width of the fabric you are using (see “Understating fabrics and fibers” above). This is the most important step because if you lay out and cut something crookedly or incorrectly, no amount of sewing, ironing, begging, or pleading will make the fabric behave the way you want it to. Learn the do’s and don’ts in Chapter 4.

Pinning and cutting

When you have the pattern pieces arranged on the fabric, pin each pattern piece to the fabric ready for cutting. As you cut out each pattern piece, notice if there are special markings such as a dart or a larger than normal dot. If so, place the cut pieces that need to be marked in one stack and those that don’t in another. Read on to learn why.

Marking

Even though you may not know what the random pattern markings mean, as you proceed through the project the guide sheet instructions will tell you. When in doubt, transfer the mark from the pattern paper to the fabric. Chapter 4 gives you several methods to do this. If you don’t, you’ll waste a bunch of time sifting through pattern paper you’ve removed from the fabric to find and mark something you should have done in the first place. (Trust me here — I make the mistakes so you don’t have to.)

Interfacing

After cutting out the pattern pieces and marking them, your guide sheet may tell you to cut interfacing for several of the pattern pieces. Some patterns even give you separate paper pattern pieces for the interfacing. So what is it and why should you care?

Certain places on a project need a little extra stability — like a collar, sleeve cuff, waistband, or down the front of a shirt or jacket with buttons and buttonholes. If what you’re wearing has a waistband, take a look at the two separate pieces of fabric creating the outside and inside of the band. Inside and between these two layers of fabric is a third piece of fabric called interfacing that keeps your waistband from stretching out of shape and that keeps the hooks and eyes, buttons, or snaps from pulling off the fabric. So even though this may seem like an unnecessary step and extra expense, interfacing gives your project a professional finish and provides excellent wear. Read more about interfacings and how to use them in Chapter 3.

Pressing for the best shape

One my tailoring professors at the New York Fashion Institute of Technology said, “as you sew, have a love affair with your iron.” By that time I had been sewing for 14 years and didn’t give my iron much thought, but she was right. The best way to get a very professional-looking project is to press every seam and press it well. Learn more about this pressing subject in Chapter 5.

Moving On to the Needle and Thread

Pieces of fabric are joined by using a needle and thread to stitch them together in a way that fits a form. Stitches are done by hand or machine, and some stitches work better than others for a specific job. See Chapter 5 for the breakdown of the most common hand and machine stitches.

Finishing the edges first

If you use a fabric that ravels, you need to treat the edges of the fabric in some way to stop it from raveling. This treatment is called finishing the edges and is done before the seams are sewn. You can finish the edges either with pinking shears, for that delightful zigzag cut that’s impervious to unraveling, or by sewing the edges with a machine or serger. Discover what works best for your project in Chapter 6.

Shaping

Shaping a piece of fabric to fit a form is done by nipping in a little here or letting out a little fabric there. So before you sew most pattern pieces together, you need to shape them with a dart, gathers, or tucks so they conform to the particular body part they cover.

To both nip in and let out at the same time, you sew a dart — a little triangle-shaped wedge of fabric that’s wide at one end and is stitched to a point at the other end. After the dart is pressed it turns that flat, lifeless piece of fabric into something that conforms to the shape of your waist, bust, knee, or elbow so the fabric can move with you and be comfortable.

Need a nip here and a lot more fullness there? Then sew a tuck — it has a similar purpose as a dart except that the fabric is taken in, stitched in a straight line, and is open (rather than coming to a point) on one or both ends. Adding gathers and elastic are other ways of putting shape where you want it. Learn all about these shape-shifting techniques in Chapter 8.

Seaming

The place where two pieces of fabric come together is called a seam. Seams can be straight, curved, or turn a corner. After seams are sewn they’re pressed and ironed into submission so that flat piece of fabric can be transformed into something that follows the contours of your body or a piece of furniture. What happens if you make a mistake? No worries. Unwanted stitches can be ripped out in several ways. You can find out more about seaming, pressing, and ripping in Chapter 6.

Closing