Copyright © 2020 by Carolyn Highland
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Writer, teacher and lover of sufferfests, Carolyn Highland always goes the extra mile in search of wild metaphors that provide insight into life’s tangliest quagmires. Over 50 of Carolyn’s essays have appeared in publications such as Backcountry Magazine, The Ski Journal, Misadventures Magazine, The Leader, the Teton Gravity Research and WildSnow websites, among others. Carolyn’s writing has also been used in course readers for the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), the Prescott College Outdoor Program, the Second Nature Wilderness Program and NatureBridge. Carolyn received a BA in creative nonfiction writing from Northwestern University in 2012.
Based in Truckee, California, Carolyn spends every spare second backcountry skiing, trail running, backpacking, mountain biking and rock climbing. When not getting after it outside and writing about it, Carolyn can be found teaching fourth graders at Tahoe Expedition Academy how to write an excellent paragraph, handle their emotions responsibly, be anti-racist and poop in the woods.
Out Here
Wisdom from the Wilderness
By Carolyn Highland
For my parents, who never told me to pursue something more practical.
For all of the young people who are fostering a big dream in their hearts it may take years to realize.
For all the past versions of myself who fearlessly walked the steep, winding trail to get here. We made it.
Wilderness equalizes us. It sets us all on flat even ground. We are all small in the face of mountains, all vulnerable before swelling seas, all dwarfed by the limitless sky. Facing the elements, we are our raw, basic selves. All else falls away. In that rawness there is clarity – all the wind on the water going still so we can see straight into the depths.
We are no longer defined by the years we have lived, or what we have been called, or the things we can do. We are all equally alive, swaying in the arms of the ancient earth. We are all equally young next to the rocks and the waves.
With us we have only the parts of ourselves we can carry, only what travels with us always. We may find things that have been hidden, we may remember what we had allowed ourselves to forget. We may stretch ourselves taller and wider to mimic towering trees, taller and wider than we ever imagined.
Back where we’re from the land is covered. Cloaked in artifice, pounded and blasted and moved and molded to our convenience. Back where we’re from we are covered. Steeped in beliefs that belong to others, folded over and compressed and colored until we forget the feel of our own skin. Out here the grass grows long, the trees stretch tall, our eyes open wide.
Where we’re from we are so often looking down. Down at the things we hold in our hands, down at our own feet as we walk, down when we can’t meet someone else’s eyes.
Being out here calls you to look in all directions at once. Down, at the plants and animals you walk beside; out, at all that lies between you and the horizon; up, at the sun and the clouds and the big ancient blue above us; and in, at the tiny reflection of the universe we hold within our ribs, behind our eyes, in our fingers and ears and mouths and toes. Our eyes no longer squint, trained on abstract things we hold in our hands, they open and clear to take in all that is around us.
Where we’re from we’re kings and queens of concrete, we cradle the power in our hands. Returning to the wild we are reminded that all we have created are constructs, all control conjured up in our minds. Out here we do not have to go to churches and temples to pray to the idea of something greater, we can simply stand before mountains and see it.
Being out here makes you feel small in ways you need to feel small. We are not all-important, we are not all knowing, we are not invincible. We are blades of grass, we are particles of wind, we are stones smoothed by water. Think of all the trillions of things happening each second all over this planet, the breathing, the flowing, the moving, the growing, the loving, the living, the dying, and try to feel like you are all that matters. You cannot.
Being out here makes you feel big in ways you need to feel big. We are not a set of nine numbers, we are not a one-word definition, we are not contained. There are mountains and seas and skies within us. Try to think of all the shades of yourself, of everything you’ve ever seen or thought or dreamed or felt or believed, and try not to feel infinite. You cannot.
Being out in the wild reminds us of all the smallness and largeness of ourselves because this earth, this sea and sky and rock and tree and mountain, this is where we are from. Not a town with a name and a sign, but the ancient, persisting, elemental earth. We are not names and birthdates but hearts and souls reflecting the browns, the blues, the greens.
I woke in the middle of the night to cold on my nose and a black strip of sky smattered with stars in my vision. It was all I could see, my sleeping bag cinched up around my face, laid out on the bare ground. I lay there unmoving, every cell of my body awake and aware of itself. It felt as though I’d been tapped on the shoulder, as though some massive universal force had tugged at me, whispering, “you need to see this.”
I’d spent the few days prior hiking through tussock and scree and contemplating the uncertainty of my future. In less than a week my semester in New Zealand would be over and I would find myself yet again a recent college graduate without a plan. The mountain air had been whirring with questions I didn’t have answers to yet, like where I’d live and what I’d do and whom I’d be with. Would I choose the easy, comfortable route and try to find a job in a city I didn’t really want to live in because my friends were there? Would I choose a route that was less challenging but safer? Or would I do something entirely different, something that I felt in my heart but would require me striking out alone? Out here, I woke up every day with a purpose – with the pure and yet complex purpose of picking up my home and walking to where I would place it next. Back in the frontcountry, the questions and options tumbled and spun and made me dizzy.
When two of my expedition mates tried to convince me to sleep outside on the night of Thanksgiving, one of our last in the backcountry, I declined, citing my exhaustion and desire to get a good night’s sleep. I liked the idea of sleeping outside better than the actuality of it, especially at high altitude in mid-spring. I would inevitably toss and turn in the cold and wake up to sand flies biting my face. I wanted the comfort of the inside of the only house we had out here. But before I even entered the tent I felt called back outside, felt called to sleep beside my two best friends underneath the sky.
Instead of feeling irritated when I awoke, I was seized by the feeling that more than ever I was exactly where I needed to be in that moment in my life. I was suddenly calm. It was all simple; it was all right before me. It was all embodied by what I was doing in that exact moment, by the choice I had made that night, a choice that seemed so insignificant at the time but that I realized then actually represented everything I was about to do, everything I wanted my life to be.
In the tent, I would have had a warm, pleasant, uninterrupted night’s sleep. I would have been comfortable. It would have been easy. It was my initial reaction because it was the path of least resistance; it was the choice that felt like the best one because it was the easiest. But it wasn’t. The best choice was to drag my sleeping bag out into the chilly night air and lay it beside two people who brought out in me what I wanted to be brought out. And so I knew it would have to be, and would be for the rest of my life.
There wasn’t a sense of obligation or pressure, it was just clear that it was the right choice and it was the one I would make. I wouldn’t spend my life living easily. I would live a certain way, I would surround myself with certain people. Being in New Zealand had awoken me to exactly the way I wanted to live my life. Not in a literal sense – I was not planning on spending the rest of my days in the backcountry. But in a sense of the way I felt when I was out there, in the way I acted, in the way I was. In the way I inhabited my real self so fully and completely. In the way I spent time with people who made me better. Who made me more of who I was.
And I knew in that moment as I gazed up at the stars, my nose frozen from the air but my arms warm from my friends on either side of me, that this is the path I would follow for the rest of my life. This is what I would do. This is the way I would live. I would travel uphill and jump into cold water and be kind and supportive and goofy and real. I would do what felt right in the deepest and purest part of me, even when it was difficult. I didn’t know yet what it would look like, but I knew what it would feel like. It wasn’t even a choice, it just was. This is the answer, it whispered. This is the way. It was right before me, as clear as the night sky above our heads.
Years after I took my last steps out of the New Zealand backcountry, I find myself thousands of miles from home on the other side of the US, having heeded the pull of the southern hemisphere stars. I find myself living the life I’d imagined. One that looks different from anything I ever could have dreamed up but feels precisely the way I knew it needed to. It was a difficult and confusing and exhausting and long and windy trail to get here, but it was the right one. And I am a fuller and richer and happier version of myself for it.
How incredible it is to – through your presence in this grand vast environment – connect with something that lies so deep within your own soul. And that is the proof, I think, that everything in this universe is connected to every other thing. That by placing my feet on the mountains and my hands into the speargrass and my ass onto the slushy snow and my head on the tussock, I was actually connecting, little by little, with myself. With something inside me long before I ever set foot in New Zealand but called to the surface by its long-lost relatives. By the sky and the stones and the streams and the snow and the stars. A message that could only be heard outside.
That is the gift wilderness gives us. It reminds us of who we are and pushes us to be that. You were always there, it whispers, but it provides us with the clear reflecting glass to see it. This is who you are, it tells us. This is who we are.
I still remember the feeling of spring-loaded energy as I rounded the curve in my first 200-meter dash in the first grade, flinging myself through the bend and powering through the straightaway to the finish. I felt propelled by something deep within, from an energy source that seemed to have just been awakened. Suddenly I was flying down the track, an unstoppable momentum in my legs. I crossed the line spent, feeling the heat of exertion in my lungs, but also a distinct sense of power, of strength.
It was a first taste of pushing my body, of the siren call of doing something difficult. I continued to feel the draw, through Nordic ski races in high school, road half-marathons in college, trail ultras and long-distance ski mountaineering races in my 20s.
There was something strangely magnetic about it – to do something I wasn’t sure if I could, something that seemed crazy. I consistently felt myself drawn to opportunities to prove myself, to move faster and farther and longer than I had before, than other people could or wanted to.
And with each hit of adrenaline, with each successful completion of a difficult endeavor, it became less of something I did and more of who I was. I was a person who ran and skied and hiked for hours through the mountains. I felt the most like myself when I was sweating and breathing hard and moving forward.
In order to do all of these things, thousands of tiny pieces of your body must work together in a certain way. Bones and muscles and ligaments must perform a synchronized, choreographed dance that allows you to move the way you want to. When your body is functioning properly, it is easy to forget this. When your body is functioning properly, you just run. You just ski. You just move. It is only when something goes wrong that you become acutely aware of the impact of any one of those parts on the overall performance of the whole, on your ability to do the things you love.
* * *
I felt it instantly, the movement that shouldn’t have happened. The grass was wet and as I went to plant all my weight on my left foot, I felt my knee extend forward past where a knee is supposed to extend. There was no pain, no pop, just a certain knowing that something had happened I couldn’t undo, that there would suddenly be a distinct before this moment and after this moment.
The panic pulsed through me in an instant, radiating out to all my extremities, to all the dark corners of my mind. So many things suddenly seemed to hang in the balance. What if it was my ACL? What if I couldn’t run? What if I couldn’t ski?
You start to reason with yourself, to think maybe if you just shake it out a little, it’ll be fine, that it was just one bad movement, akin to a minor ankle roll, and you’ll ice it for a day and then laugh it off. That there’s no way you could have possibly done real damage to your knee while playing a game called birdie on a perch.
You start to bargain with the universe. You’ll never play ridiculous games in wet grass again that put what you love in jeopardy. You’ll stop basing so much of your happiness on your body’s ability to function at a high level – but if it’s cool, you’d really love to not be injured so you can continue to experience the happiness that’s based on your body’s ability to function at a high level.
The lessons we adamantly insist we don’t need to learn, the ones we resist from our core, are the ones the universe is mostly like to push toward us anyway with its eyebrows raised. Like hell you don’t need to learn this.
* * *
A few weeks after I slipped on the grass, I was slated to spend two weeks backpacking on the Colorado Trail. We’d spent months planning and organizing and looking at topos and dehydrating food, and I was going to slap a brace on my knee and be fine. The first stage of grief is denial.
With me were two other women – Jules, a childhood friend from Maine, and Jess, a trail running buddy from Denver. We set up our first camp on a pass next to the trailhead, and I lay awake in my sleeping bag for hours, an internal battle raging in my mind and keeping me from sleep. I wanted to go back to the moment I jumped off the wet grass and undo it, I wanted to believe I could backpack for two weeks and be fine, I wanted to know if what I was about to do was reckless and foolish. Running through me was the panic that had entered my body the moment I felt my knee hyperextend. It came in and out, stronger in some moments than others, but it was always present. What if I had to stop doing what I loved?
When we set out the next morning for our first day on the trail, I felt hyperaware of my body as it moved. Hiking and running are these beautiful, rhythmic activities that bring your body back to a primal state, a forward motion that feels instinctive and organic. But now I couldn’t surrender to the dance because something was off. One dancer wasn’t following the choreography, and it took me out of the flow, out of the moment.
The mountains had always been a place where I felt like myself, where I dialed into an inner stillness and outer rhythm that felt absolutely essential. But now, moving more slowly and with less confidence, the connection seemed to deteriorate. I wanted to move the way I was used to, the way I knew I could.
And so, when I wasn’t able to tap into my inner zen wilderness princess, I became cranky and frustrated and snapped at my friends. The second stage of grief is anger.
Pain is inevitable, but suffering is optional. Suffering is ultimately created by a resistance to what is, by a sense that the universe owed you something different than what you got, that things were supposed to be a different way.
If we don’t like what is, we have two productive options: to try our best to be still with it, to accept it, or to take forward action in the ways we can. Passive complaining or wishing things were different are fruitless, addictive options that make us miserable to be around and create a challenging situation that is more unpleasant than it has to be.
A few days in, Jules let us know she was experiencing Achilles pain. She told us this calmly, as a mere statement of what was. We moved some weight around in packs to allow her body a break, she hiked at the back of the pack to be able to take more deliberate steps and treated her feet to a 15-minute creek or alpine lake soak every night after dinner.
Her pain didn’t change her disposition; it didn’t seem to interfere with her experience of being out in the wilderness for an extended period of time. It was simply another fact of reality. She didn’t ignore the situation, but she didn’t dwell in it either. She accepted it and took the steps in her power to improve it.
One night Jules and I sat down near a creek in a lush valley after our longest day yet. We had set out in the morning with the intention of hiking 16 miles to a campsite mentioned in the guidebook, but we found it already occupied upon arrival and had to continue on to an area with “potential campsites” in a zone that would add anywhere from one to three miles to the day’s total. I had already been in a bad mood prior to the realization that we would have to continue, frustrated I wasn’t able to crush ascents the way I usually did, and experiencing a twinge in my back from carrying an extra heavy pack to displace the weight for Jules. The three of us had gotten into a pointless passive-aggressive snap-off about where we should stop to get water and were exhausted by the time we finally found a campable spot in a lush valley near a creek.
Jules had been soaking her feet nightly for a few days now, but after peeling off my socks and realizing my toe blisters were steadily worsening, I decided to join her. The water was snowmelt flowing down from high above us, and the evening was cold enough to be bundled up in a puffy and wool beanie. I balled my socks up on the grass next to me, rolled up my fleece pants and stuck my foot in, and almost instantly yanked it back out and shook it off. I had no problem putting my entire body into cold water for a few seconds, but once the icy burn penetrated my skin, every cell in my body screamed for it to be over. If it were a little less cold, I would soak.
I watched in awe as Jules stepped into the creek with both feet, Chacos still on, set the timer on her watch, and stood. She was still the entire time, never taking her feet out of the water or even adjusting their position. She chatted and admired the scenery, and when the timer on her watch went off, she stepped out of the creek.
The cold was just what was, was just a fact of reality she had to contend with. But despite the inevitable discomfort of the temperature, the water was what her body needed, and so she stood still. She took the forward action she was able to, allowing the pain without giving in to suffering.
The stillness was the problem. My body craved motion. It didn’t want to stand in the creek for 15 minutes, it wanted to jump in the lake and run back out. It was the same reason I’d rather run for five hours than do yoga for five minutes. The idea of my body being still, of not being able to move in all the ways that brought me joy, caused a whirring panic in my mind. The threat of outer stillness was creating a lack of inner stillness. And the only way to accept one was to achieve the other.
* * *
During the winter of my freshman year of high school, I walked into dinner at the lodge we were staying at for the Nordic skiing state championships and was stopped by a popular senior and congratulated on my race the day before. She had done so in front of a table of other seniors, who smiled at me and nodded in confirmation that what I had done was, in fact, badass. I was 15 years old and had never even spoken to these seniors, so far above me in status and social ease that they felt like celebrities.